[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] Colorful Wild Cherry Blossoms, Voluntary Isolation Under Light Green Fresh Foliage

Remote Journey in Jinan, Jeonbuk - Jukdo in Gamak-ri, a Mountain Village Layered Like Overlapping Curtains

By the riverside of Gamak-ri fields, where wild cherry blossoms and fresh greenery harmonize to create a spring landscape, a camper is leisurely enjoying camping.

Gamak-ri Jukdo Road

Gamak-ri Jukdo

The Peak of Spring Scenery Encountered in Jinan

Gamnak-ri Riverside

The spring atmosphere is full beneath Cheonbansan Mountain.

Canola Flowers Met on Yongdamho Lake Trail

Bugwi Metasequoia Road

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yong-jun] Jinan, Jeonbuk, is a highland village. Situated at a high altitude, it is surrounded by many mountains, and the water flowing between the mountains meanders freely. The Seomjin River originates here, and the uppermost stream of the Geum River, which starts from Deunbongsaem in Jangsu, passes through. Due to these geographical conditions, Jinan still gives outsiders a feeling of remoteness. This is also why the representative remote villages of Jeonbuk?Muju, Jinan, and Jangsu?are collectively called 'Mujinjang' by taking the first syllables of each. Although it is not remembered as a travel destination with spectacular attractions, there is something about the name Jinan that everyone might know: Maisan, which is said to resemble a horse's ears. The two large rock formations look as if someone plunged them from the sky into the ground rather than simply rising from the earth, giving a bizarre and mysterious impression. Unfortunately, this journey does not go to Maisan. In line with social distancing measures due to COVID-19, we head deeper into the remote area of Jinan. It is Jukdo (Bamboo Island) located in Gamak-ri, Jinan-eup. It is called an island within the land. It is also known as the 'Water-turning Island' because the river surrounds it on all sides. This place is where Jeong Yeo-rip (1546?1589), the protagonist of the 'Gichuk Ok-sa (Gichuk Incident)' in which over 1,000 Joseon scholars suffered, nurtured and had to abandon his dreams. In the COVID-19 era, we embark on a voluntary isolation journey to Jukdo, where Jeong Yeo-rip once hid.

Gamak-ri Jukdo is located upstream of Yongdam Lake, near the border with Janggyemyeon, Jangsu-gun. Locals call it an 'island within the land.' The Gamakcheon stream flowing down from Jangsu and the Geum River coming from Muju brush past both sides of Jukdo and merge downstream.

The name Gamak-ri literally means a mountainous area where layers of tents seem to block the way. Also, there is a deep pool east of Daeseom Island shaped like a cauldron, called 'Gamaesso.' It is presumed that the name Gamak-ri evolved from the pronunciation of 'Gamaesso.' Another theory is that the name originated from 'Gamak-i,' meaning a very remote mountain village.

The road to Gamak-ri Jukdo has always been rugged. You descend along the path toward the stream near Jangjeon Village bus stop. It is about 1.5 km from here to Jukdo. The unpaved road crossing the valley can be easily accessed by a sports utility vehicle (SUV), but a slow walk is chosen. How can one feel the season of Manchun (the season of abundant spring) inside a car?

On a misty morning, the path follows the welcoming sound of Gamakcheon water. Surrounded by overlapping mountains, the scenery of Jukdo and the nearby Cheonbansan (Heavenly Plate Mountain, 646.7m) boasts the best views in spring and autumn. The colorful mountain cherry blossoms and fresh green leaves sparkle like paint splashes. The path is gentle. The soil beneath the feet feels soft. The wind, filled with the scent of the forest, brushes the face. Though short, one can fully enjoy the feeling of spring. The steps are energetic, and the forest is fresh.

Walking closely along the waterway of Gamakcheon, the path is so wonderful that it makes one forget the presence of companions. The riverside path continues through the fresh green forest. Tire tracks left by SUVs are clearly visible, but the path becomes increasingly quiet. Beyond solitude, it feels like a 'secret path.'

After about 30 minutes of walking, a steep cliff comes into view. It is surrounded by a rock wall with no footholds or handholds. Locals call it 'Byeongpung Rock' (Folding Screen Rock) because of its shape, or 'Beseul Rock' because it resembles a rooster's comb.

Arriving at Jukdo, the mist clears, revealing a huge cliff with a sharp cut in the middle. The place that once looked like a folding screen rock connected to the mountain ridge was cut to facilitate smooth agricultural water supply, turning it into an island-like landform. From the sky, Jukdo looks like a 'satgat' (traditional Korean bamboo hat) floating on the river, and the river flows in an omega (Ω) shape. When it rains heavily, the Geum River flows through the cut, making Jukdo a true island.

Jukdo is rich in bamboo, and the name comes from Cheonbansan in front of the island, which rises like a bamboo shoot. The surrounding white sand beaches and flat areas are called Gamak-ri fields by locals. In fact, the area is better known by the name Gamak-ri fields than by Jukdo.

Jukdo is also a site of painful history. 420 years ago, in the year of Gichuk (1589), a bloody storm swept through. Over 1,000 Joseon scholars were massacred. This is the Gichuk Ok-sa. At the center of this incident was Jeong Yeo-rip. He said, 'Anyone can become king according to their ability.' This was like thunder striking the Joseon scholarly society at the time. Jeong Yeo-rip was passionate and fearless. He was never intimidated even before King Seonjo. If he had something to say, he expressed it confidently. Yi Yulgok also called him a 'genius of the era' without hesitation. When Jeong Yeo-rip was falsely accused of treason in secret Jang-gye, he came to Jukdo, fought against government troops, and is said to have taken his own life. Some say he was killed by assassins rather than committing suicide. On Cheonbansan in front of Jukdo, there is a legendary mountain fortress where Jeong Yeo-rip trained his troops. Jukdo is exactly the place where Jeong Yeo-rip nurtured and had to abandon his dreams.

Recently, Gamak-ri fields were introduced on the TV show '1 Night 2 Days,' gaining popularity as a destination for remote travel and camping enthusiasts. Enjoying an isolated trip with bird songs, wind sounds, and water sounds in a quiet remote area offers a different charm from bustling city travel and is emerging as a new travel trend in the COVID-19 era.

If you visit Jukdo, trekking Cheonbansan (Heavenly Plate Mountain, 646.7m) is also recommended. Cheonbansan lies prostrate, extending its dragon head toward Jukdo. It looks like a resting cow or a dolphin about to hit a ball with its nose.

On the way to the summit, the winding streams including Gamakcheon rushing toward the Geum River, and the views of Maisan, Gubongsan, and Bukdubong are a feast for the eyes. Near the summit, there is a wide field and a well, and it is said that Jeong Yeo-rip conducted military training for the Daedonggye troops here. The view of Jukdo from the ridge is also beautiful. Cheonbansan is a mountain best enjoyed by walking slowly and unhurriedly.

If you want to enjoy the tranquil spring scenery of Jinan, Yongdam Lake is a must. Yongdam Lake is an artificial lake created by the Yongdam Dam, which holds back the waters of the Geum River. The lake in spring welcomes travelers with freshness and vitality. The 61 km lakeside road around Yongdam Lake is perfect for a drive along a path surrounded by the clear lake like a folding screen. Especially at Wolpo-ri, Sangjeon-myeon, the yellow canola flowers swaying in the wind against the backdrop of Yongdam Lake create a spectacular view.

About 20 minutes from Yongdam Lake is Moraejae. It is a 20 km mountain pass road connecting Soyang-myeon, Wanju-gun, and Bugwi-myeon, Jinan-gun. In the old days, people from Muju, Jangsu, and Jinan had to cross Moraejae to go to Jeonju. Moraejae is one of the '100 Beautiful Roads.' Metasequoia trees line the road like a painting.

The Metasequoia road stretches about 1.5 km from Seodong-ri, Bugwi-myeon, near Keunteogol Village to Wonseodong Village, just before the Moraejae tunnel. Although it cannot be compared in scale to the Metasequoia road in Damyang, its leisurely curves are impressive. The exotic Metasequoia scenery changes with the seasons, attracting many cyclists and visitors.

Jinan = Text and photos by Jo Yong-jun, travel specialist jun21@

◇ Travel Notes

△ Getting there = If you travel by car from the metropolitan area to Jinan Jukdo, take the Gyeongbu Expressway and Tongyeong-Daejeon Expressway, then exit at Muju Interchange. Follow National Road 30, turn left at Singoe Intersection, then turn right at Jasan Intersection, and after about 10 minutes, you will reach Jangjeon Village.