[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] An Island Embracing History, Holding Golden Sunset Glow

Journey Along the Southern Coastal Road of Ganghwado Following the Dondae

One of the pleasures of driving along the southern coastal road of Ganghwado is that you can encounter golden sunsets anywhere.

Jeongsusa Moonchangsal

Sondolmok Dondae

Yongdu Dondae

Nakja viewed from Bunori Dondae

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yongjun] Ganghwa Bridge - Gapgot Fortress - Deoreomi Port - Gwangseongbo Fortress - Yongdu Fortress - Deokjinjin Fortress - Donggeomdo Fork - Buno-ri Fortress - Dongmak Beach - Janghwari Sunset Viewpoint

Ganghwa Island is the fourth largest island in South Korea. Known as the "museum without a roof" due to its abundant cultural heritage, it is a sacred site for overcoming national crises. From the Dangun era when the Chamseongdan Altar was built on Manisan Mountain, through the Three Kingdoms period, the Mongol invasions during the Goryeo dynasty, and the Joseon dynasty which endured the Jeongmyo and Byeongja invasions, as well as the Byeongin and Shinmi Western incursions, Ganghwa Island has consistently been the stage for significant historical events. The turbulent history engraved throughout Ganghwa Island is proof of this. This week, we head to Ganghwa Island. It is a place reachable within an hour from Seoul and has long been a destination for those wanting to see the sea. However, due to social distancing measures from COVID-19, even that has become difficult. Visiting historical sites in person is even more challenging. Therefore, this is a non-face-to-face drive along the southern coastal road. This route passes by fortresses built around the island to defend against foreign invasions, historic sites imbued with the spirit of national resilience, and more. Not only that, it is also a path to encounter the world-famous West Sea mudflats, charming temples, beaches, and beautiful sunsets.

Ganghwa Island’s circumference is 99 km, and driving around it takes about an hour and a half. This time, the journey starts at Ganghwa Bridge and follows the southern coastal road. If you find a place that catches your eye, you can stop briefly and enjoy the scenery.

Ganghwa Island begins where the Han River and Imjin River end. The name Ganghwa is related to rivers; originally called "Gangha (江下)" meaning "the lower region surrounded by several rivers" referring to the Han, Imjin, and Yesong Rivers, it was later changed to "Ganghwa (江華)" meaning "beautiful region below the river."

Thanks to Ganghwa Bridge leading to the island, the scenery and breeze of the West Sea can be fully felt through the car window. As you drive, the salty scent intensifies. Crossing Ganghwa Bridge immediately gives you the feeling of being on an island. After crossing, passing Gapgot Fortress and the Ganghwa War Museum, the coastal road begins.

Gapgot Fortress was a major defense base for Seoul and the primary refuge for the royal family in case of foreign invasion. Along the coastal road past the fortress, on the left beyond the barbed wire fence, several trawl fishing boats rest, drifting with the current. Seagulls, seemingly tired, nod off on the bows of the boats.

Signs for eel restaurants are visible along the road, indicating that Deoreomi Port is near. This area is famous as an eel village. It is no exaggeration to say that Ganghwa’s renowned eel restaurants are concentrated here. If not for COVID-19, stopping by an eel restaurant to taste grilled eel would be a great experience.

Passing Deoreomi Port, the road stretches through Yongjinjin Fortress to Gwangseongbo Fortress. Gwangseongbo is the largest among the 5 Jin, 7 Bo, and 53 Dondae (fortresses) of Ganghwa Island. Historical sites such as Sondolmok Fortress, Yongdu Fortress, and Gwangseong Fortress form a cluster here.

If there are few travelers, it is worth parking briefly at Gwangseongbo to enjoy a fortress walk. The pine forest shade and neatly maintained paths make for a pleasant stroll. Especially after passing the artillery base facing the Yeomha Strait (between Ganghwa Island and Gimpo City), a serene trail welcomes you. If the area is quiet, it feels like being deep in a forest. The uphill forest path is only about 100 meters long but very atmospheric. At the hill where the forest ends stands Sondolmok Fortress. Taking a break here and climbing the fortress to overlook the Yeomha Strait is a relaxing experience. You can enjoy the feeling of having the fortress all to yourself if no other visitors are around.

At the seaside below Sondolmok Fortress stands Yongdu Fortress. It is less known and easily missed unless you deliberately seek it out, but it offers the most beautiful scenery.

Returning to Gwangseongbo, continue along the coastal road. About 2 km down is Deokjinjin Fortress. Watching the swift currents of the Yeomha Strait, you can hear the rumbling sound of rocks colliding, which resembles the cannon fire from Western powers’ warships during invasions.

Passing Chojidae Bridge and at the Donggeomdo fork, take the road toward Dongmak Beach. Over the mudflats at the entrance to Donggeomdo, an old fishing boat exudes a sense of loneliness. The boat is so old that it is hard to tell when it last went fishing, but it serves as a resting place for seagulls.

Passing Hamheodongcheon, you reach Jeongsusa Temple. Located on the eastern foothills of Manisan Mountain, Jeongsusa was founded in 639 AD (8th year of Queen Seondeok of Silla) by the monk Hoejeong. Compared to Bomunsa or Jeondeungsa Temples on Ganghwa Island, it is smaller but well-established. The Daeungjeon Hall, designated Treasure No. 161, is famous for its wooden lattice windows. The lattice windows carved with peonies and roses in vibrant colors of blue, yellow, red, and green are considered the most beautiful in Korea.

Leaving Jeongsusa and climbing the coastal road ridge, you reach Buno-ri Fortress. Due to its location on a ridge, it is an excellent sunset viewpoint.

Descending from Buno-ri Fortress leads to Dongmak Beach. It is a beach combining vast mudflats and sandy shores. Sandy beaches are rare on Ganghwa Island, and although small, it has a pine forest. The mudflats are well-known and attract many visitors, with various recreational facilities available.

To the left is the sea, and to the right is Manisan Mountain as the coastal road continues to Janghwari. If the sun is setting and the weather is good, you can experience the best scenery during the drive. The road is dotted with sunset viewpoints. When the sun begins to set, stop your car at a suitable spot and enjoy the sunset comfortably from inside. If no one is around, you can get out and breathe in the fresh air.

Near Janghwari is Janggod Fortress, also a sunset viewpoint. Built in 1679 (5th year of King Sukjong) for coastal defense of Ganghwa Island, the fortress walls were restored in 1993.

Passing Janggod Fortress and descending the ridge road leads to Seonsu Port. Originally famous for ban-dengi hoe (raw fish dish), if not in season, crabs and other seafood are abundant here. From Seonsu Port, Seokmodo Island is visible across the sea, seemingly within reach. From here, the coastal road ends and continues toward the Manisan National Tourist Site.

Ganghwa Island = Text and photos by Jo Yongjun, Travel Specialist Reporter jun21@

◇ Travel Notes

△ Attractions = Gyodongdo Island, Bomunsa Temple, Jeondeungsa Temple, Dolmens, Boleumdo Island, Seokmodo Island, Goryeo Palace Site, Anglican Ganghwa Cathedral, Joyang Textile, Manisan Mountain, Goryeosan Azalea Field, Ganghwa 5-day Market, and more.