"Beauty for All Women" How 'Chanel' Became a 'Wannabe Brand' [Hidden Industry Story]

'Icon of Women's Liberation' Gabrielle Chanel
Marilyn Monroe's 'Sleepwear' Perfume... 'Chanel No.5'
Simple yet Beautiful Use of the Color 'Black'

Chanel store. [Photo by Yonhap News]

[Asia Economy Reporter Heo Midam] "Fashion changes, but style is eternal."

There is a brand loved by people worldwide for pursuing its own style rather than following trends. 'Chanel (CHANEL),' considered one of the three major luxury brands alongside Herm?s and Louis Vuitton, is that very brand. Chanel brought a fresh breeze to the fashion world with revolutionary designs that broke free from social prejudices and gender discrimination. What is the secret behind Chanel, which has maintained steady love over its 100-year history?

◆ Gabrielle Chanel, who 'liberated' women from corsets

Gabrielle Chanel, founder of Chanel.
[Photo by Yonhap News]

Gabrielle Chanel, the founder of Chanel, was born in 1883 in a poor neighborhood in Saumur, France. Chanel's mother passed away when she was 12 years old, and her father, struggling with poverty, eventually sent her to an orphanage.

Having endured a difficult childhood, she learned sewing and other clothing-related skills at the orphanage and, shortly after becoming an adult, left the orphanage to work at a sewing factory.

However, the income from the sewing factory alone was insufficient, so she also sang on a small tavern stage at night. At that time, Chanel sang songs like Offenbach's "Ko Ko Ri Ko," and tavern patrons gave her the nickname "CoCo." From then on, people naturally called her "CoCo Chanel" instead of her given name, Gabrielle Chanel.

During this time, Chanel met British wealthy businessman Arthur Edward Capel, and with his help, she opened a shop called Chanel Modes on Rue Cambon, a fashion street in Paris, in 1910. When Gabrielle Dorziat, a top actress of the time, wore Chanel's hats in her play "The Elegant Friends," Chanel's hats gained great popularity among upper-class women.

Three years later, building on her success as a hat designer, Chanel opened her first boutique in Deauville, a seaside resort town. This boutique offered not only hats but also various garments, among which ankle-length skirts were especially famous.

At that time, women were confined to a standardized appearance, wearing corsets and petticoats. Chanel's design was an innovative one that gave a sense of liberation to these constrained women.

Moreover, when World War I broke out, women had to work in place of the men who disappeared due to the war. Women found Chanel's practical and simple designs more attractive than the previously ornate clothing styles. Subsequently, Chanel created two-piece outfits using thin and light jersey fabric, which received a positive response from women.

◆ The perfume 'Chanel No. 5' loved by Marilyn Monroe

Perfume 'Chanel No. 5'. Photo by Chanel website

One of the reasons Chanel gained great popularity is the perfume 'Chanel No. 5.' First introduced in 1921, this perfume has captivated many women for 100 years and remains a steady seller in the perfume world.

This perfume was Chanel's first fragrance created by perfumer Ernest Beaux, and when it was first released, it gave women a fresh shock. At that time, perfumes were made from only one or two types of flowers, so the scent faded quickly. To maintain the scent, it had to be applied frequently and in large amounts, which was inconvenient. However, 'Chanel No. 5' used over 80 different flowers, including rose and jasmine, creating a subtle yet long-lasting fragrance.

In particular, the reason this perfume gained even more fame was American actress Marilyn Monroe. When asked by a reporter what she wore to bed, Marilyn Monroe answered, "Chanel No. 5," and after that, Chanel's popularity skyrocketed.

◆ Black, an endlessly attractive color

Design of the 'Little Black Dress'. Photo by Vogue Instagram

Another reason Chanel became a legendary icon in global fashion is the 'Little Black Dress' introduced in 1926. At that time, all-black was not a color for everyday wear. Black was considered a color worn by thieves or robbers, carrying a negative image.

However, this prejudice was changed by Chanel. She envisioned simple clothes that would not tire the wearer and could be worn for a long time, and that garment was the all-black 'Little Black Dress.' Chanel published this dress in a magazine, which caused a great sensation.

At that time, Chanel said, "Black is the color that contains all colors. White is the same. Its beauty is absolute." Since then, Chanel has continuously released various new products composed of white and black.

◆ Karl Lagerfeld, who filled the void left by Gabrielle Chanel

Karl Lagerfeld. Photo by Karl Lagerfeld Instagram

After Gabrielle Chanel passed away in 1971, Karl Lagerfeld led the brand. In 1983, Lagerfeld joined as the fashion artistic director overseeing all of Chanel's designs.

Four years later, he established the watch department and opened a watch & jewelry store in Place Vend?me, Paris, France, in 1997. He also expanded Chanel's domain into skincare and beauty and increased the range of ready-to-wear collections.

In the 2000s, he traveled around the world to countries such as the United States, Russia, and Hong Kong, holding various themed Chanel exhibitions. These exhibitions showcased the brand's philosophy, history, and values, contributing to Chanel's global expansion.

However, in February last year, Karl Lagerfeld passed away at the age of 85, and Virginie Viard, the director of Chanel's fashion studio, took over leading Chanel. She is the first female creative director appointed since Gabrielle Chanel.