[Jo Yongjun's Journey] Even if my calves ache on the vertical iron stairs, how can I not look back at the peak of this autumn?

Wanju Daedunsan Autumn Foliage Journey - Rugged Muscular Rock Peaks Amidst a Sea of Red Leaves

Wanju Daedunsan is blazing with the flames of autumn foliage. When you climb the Samseon stairs and look back, the colors of the autumn leaves between the cloud bridge and the rocky peak are so rich that they seem to bleed like fresh blood.

A full moon rose over Bibijeong, the 8th of the 9 scenic spots in Wanju.

Autumn Morning in Wanju

Autumn Foliage of Cheondeung Valley

Sunset over Mangyeong River

[Asia Economy Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yong-jun] Flowers have bloomed on every branch among the rugged muscular rocky peaks. Red, yellow, pink, and other colorful flowers are performing a splendid dance. Under the sky, Machendae, Nakjodae, and Chilseongbong are all adorned with colorful autumn foliage, creating a picturesque scene in an instant. Even on the dizzying Geumgang Cloud Bridge and the iron stairs climbing the vertical walls, the fierce power of the autumn leaves blazing like a wildfire is tremendous. Among the famous mountains called the Geumgangsan (Diamond Mountain) of Honam, it is second to none. This is a story about the autumn scenery of Daedunsan (Daedunsan Mountain, elevation 878m) in Wanju-gun, Jeonbuk, which reached its peak last weekend. I have always visited travel destinations earlier than the peak season. Because of that, my memories of seeing the peak autumn leaves and flowers are faint. It is no exaggeration to say that there are almost none. I usually visit when the leaves have just started to change color or when spring flowers begin to bloom, so that readers can see the leaves and flowers and then visit. However, this year, I actually saw the peak autumn leaves. It is because of the novel coronavirus infection (COVID-19). Although social distancing measures have been eased, if crowds gather at autumn foliage spots, the risk of infectious disease spread remains. Therefore, I am delivering the splendid autumn leaves at their peak to readers through this article. The autumn of Daedunsan you are seeing now may be difficult to see this week. So please remember well and be sure to visit next fall when COVID-19 ends.

Daedunsan borders Wanju-gun and the cities of Nonsan and Geumsan in Chungnam Province. With an elevation of 878 meters, the highest peak, Machendae, stands tall, surrounded by about a thousand rocky peaks that are pointed like bamboo shoots. The shape is mysterious, as if a traditional Korean landscape painting folding screen has been unfolded. It is said that Monk Wonhyo praised this scenery, saying, "Even after circling it for three days, one cannot take their feet away."

Although Nonsan and Geumsan also share parts of Daedunsan, it is best enjoyed from the Wanju side. When you first encounter Daedunsan from Wanju, especially in this autumn when the leaves are changing color, anyone will be surprised. The mountain scenery, surrounded by rugged rocky peaks from afar, exudes an extraordinary aura. Even after climbing the mountain, the grandeur remains, and the charming feeling does not change at all.

The starting point for hiking is the Daedunsan group facility area. There are three hiking trails and the Milky Way Trail, totaling four courses. No matter which course you take, it takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes to reach the summit, Machendae. From any route, you can encounter the scenery where the blood-red maple leaves are scattered on every rocky peak.

Among these, the representative route is from the cable car ticket office, passing through the gorge (Geumgang Valley), Dongsim Rock, Geumgang Cloud Bridge, and Samseon Stairs to Machendae. The descent route goes around Nakjodae, Chilseongbong, and Yongmungul Cave, then back down to Dongsim Rock. If the uphill from the beginning is burdensome, taking the cable car (length 927m) to the 70% ridge and starting the hike from there is also an option. During the autumn foliage season, the line for the cable car can be endless.

After passing the ticket office and entering the gorge, steep stone stairs appear. Geumgang Valley, where General Kwon Yul won a victory during the Imjin War, welcomes hikers with pine trees, oak trees, Korean nut pines, sawtooth oaks, and Mongolian oaks all dressed in splendid colors.

After about an hour of climbing the winding steep trail, you will be surrounded by an autumn forest and attracted by a rock perched on a rocky peak. This is Dongsim Rock. It is said that this huge rock, precariously tilted as if it might fall at any moment, has endured for over 1,000 years.

After pushing through the last slope, you reach the cable car terminal. Climbing the iron stairs and squeezing through the cracks in the rock wall, the view suddenly opens up. The famous Geumgang Cloud Bridge of Daedunsan, Samseon Stairs, and Machendae appear faintly. The mountain slopes embracing huge rocky peaks are blazing with the flames of autumn leaves.

The path to Machendae is not easy. Although the summit is relatively close at 700 meters, it is a steep uphill. After 5 minutes of climbing, you reach the Geumgang Cloud Bridge. Although the bridge looks sturdy, walking on it gives a considerable sense of height. It is 1 meter wide, 50 meters long, and 80 meters high. The bridge sways more in the middle. Some people say, "I am too scared to cross," but most enjoy it. Standing in the middle of the bridge, the view below is dizzying. If the wind shakes the bridge, your legs go numb.

After crossing the bridge, the Yaksujeong Rest Area is a welcome sight. You can rest your feet for a moment while drinking a cup of medicinal tea. Samseon Stairs are nearby. Samseon Stairs are a 36-meter 'vertical iron ladder.' It is narrow and steep (51 degrees), so you climb by hanging on.

The stairs are one-way only going up to the summit. For descending, hikers use a different trail. Looking down from above, you can guess why the trail was made this way. The iron stairs connect rocky cliffs and are as steep as a ladder, with a sheer drop below. Hikers with weak hearts choose to take a detour.

Looking to the right, Daedunsan's rocky peaks look as if they are about to attack. The rugged rocks protruding like muscles are imposing. Even hikers who entered thinking they were fearless feel dizzy on the swaying iron stairs. Their hands gripping the handrails tighten. However, climbing the stairs brings a strange thrill that wraps around the body and a thrilling pleasure.

What beautifully shapes Daedunsan's autumn leaves are the towering rocky peaks. The color of the blazing autumn leaves on the huge vertical cliffs is intensely rich, as if blood is oozing out.

Leaving Samseon Stairs behind, the path to the summit is also steep. You climb for about 20 minutes with your nose almost touching the stone stairs. When your calves start to ache, you reach a three-way junction; turning left leads to Machendae. The name means 'peak facing the sky.' At the summit stands the Daedunsan Pioneer Monument towering high.

Standing on Machendae, there is nothing obstructing your view. All mountain peaks lie beneath your eyes. Looking east from Machendae, the rugged peaks spread majestically, and the forest looks like clouds. Looking far away, you can see Deogyusan Mountain seemingly within reach among the rolling peaks, and even Maisan and Jirisan Mountains are within sight.

Most people retrace their steps and take the cable car down. Those who want to enjoy autumn longer walk along the ridge to Nakjodae, Yongmungul Cave, and Chilseongbong to descend.

Wanju offers not only the splendid autumn leaves of Daedunsan but also several places where calm and quiet scenery fits well. These include Hwaamsa Temple, Cheonho Sacred Site, and Doejae Catholic Church. Hwaamsa Temple is widely known for its true charm through the poem 'My Love at Hwaamsa' by poet Ando Hyun. The poet described Hwaamsa as 'an old temple that placed foundation stones in the clouds to avoid being caught by the clouds,' holding a 'pen of words.' Hwaamsa is famous for its Geungnakjeon Hall, designated as National Treasure No. 316, which has a unique architectural style where a beam called Haang supports the eaves.

Cheonho Sacred Site is land that holds the blood of saints who formed a faith community and were martyred after the Gihae Persecution about 150 years ago. The sacred site area is filled with clear and gentle energy, surrounded by pine and cypress forests. About a 15-minute drive from Cheonho Sacred Site in Seungchi-ri, Hwasan-myeon, there is Doejae Catholic Church, the second parish church built on Korean soil after Yakhyun Catholic Church in Seoul and the first Hanok-style Catholic church. It is also a serene place where blessings seem to descend naturally in the quiet.

Wanju = Written and photographed by travel specialist reporter Jo Yong-jun jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△Getting There=To hike Daedunsan, take the Chubu Interchange on the Daejeon-Tongyeong Expressway and follow National Road No. 17 over Baetijae Pass. If you want to visit Daedunsan and then tour Hwaamsa Temple and Cheonho Sacred Site, it is best to enter Daedunsan from the Wanju side, follow National Road No. 17 toward Unju-myeon, stop by Hwaamsa Temple, pass through Hwasan-myeon town, then turn left at Uwol Samgeori to reach Cheonho Sacred Site and Doejae Catholic Church in order.

△Attractions=There are many attractions including Oseong Hanok Village, famous as a filming location for BTS's music video, Bibijeong, Mangyeong River, Daea Arboretum (photo), Sangkwan Gonggi Village Cypress Forest, Mountain Lighthouse, Daea Reservoir, and Samnye Cultural and Arts Village.

△Food=Tofu from the Yangmyeon Hwasim-ri area is highly regarded. Hwasim Sundubu (soft tofu stew) is especially famous. Near Daedunsan, there are several restaurants serving mountain vegetable bibimbap and Neungi mushroom hot pot (photo), but Daedunsan-gol is well known.