Thom Browne Breaks Away from Classic Suit Design
Red, White, and Blue Tricolor Stripes Symbolize the Brand
'Galaxy Z Flip' Collaboration with Thom Browne Also Sold Out
[Asia Economy Reporter Heo Midam] Tailored suits with sharply cut jackets and perfectly fitted shirts, narrow collars. Thom Browne is far from the classic suit designs that have come before. Ankle-length 9/10-length slacks and short jackets break the mold of conventional suits. This is why New York’s fashionistas pay attention to Thom Browne. Based on a fresh and sophisticated sensibility that traditional luxury brands lacked, Thom Browne has captured the attention of not only Koreans but people worldwide. What makes fashion lovers so enthusiastic about Thom Browne?
Aspiring Actor Thom Browne Steps into the Fashion World
Designer Thom Browne entered the fashion market by questioning traditional suit attire. However, his start was not smooth. Before making a name in fashion, he once dreamed of becoming an actor and worked as a sales clerk at Giorgio Armani’s store in New York. During this time, he met Ralph Lauren, the designer of Polo. By chance, he took on the role of assistant designer for Ralph Lauren, marking his debut in the fashion industry.
He officially launched Thom Browne in 2001. At that time, he produced only five types of suits by pre-order in New York’s West Village.
Starting as a “reservation-only store,” Thom Browne expanded its brand scope by introducing a men’s ready-to-wear and accessories collection in 2003 and its first women’s collection in 2011.
Thom Browne’s garments, crafted with precise tailoring and top-level craftsmanship, were enough to attract the attention of New York’s fashion-conscious crowd.
In particular, Thom Browne became known for embedding his own philosophy into suits. He gained fame by expressing the stylish feel of late 1950s to early 1960s America with his own classic touch.
He was recognized for revitalizing the American fashion scene, which had been confined within rigid boundaries, and was named Men’s Wear Designer of the Year three times by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) in 2006, 2013, and 2016. In 2017, he also received the Couture Council Award from the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York.
Ultimately, the aspiring actor Thom Browne transformed into the CEO of a brand operating over 300 department stores and boutiques in more than 40 countries worldwide.
G-Dragon, SHINee, BTS... Koreans’ Beloved 'Thom Browne'
Korea is one of the countries that especially adores Thom Browne. The brand is famous for being favored by celebrities such as G-Dragon, known as a “Thom Browne maniac,” as well as SHINee and BTS.
In particular, G-Dragon frequently wore Thom Browne suits he purchased himself, sparking buzz, and in 2014, he was invited to Paris Fashion Week where he shared photos with Thom Browne.
BTS also regularly wears Thom Browne. Last year, they coordinated their suits and shoes from Thom Browne for their performance at the UK’s Wembley Stadium.
At a press conference, when a reporter commented that their suits reminded him of the band The Beatles, member Suga replied, “Today we are wearing Thom Browne. Being called the Beatles of the 21st century is a bit overwhelming. We will work harder so as not to disgrace the Beatles seniors,” which brought smiles. In the past, The Beatles gained popularity with the “Mod look,” characterized by neat shirts and sharply tailored suits. The pursuit of a clean design that fits perfectly aligns with Thom Browne’s philosophy.
Thom Browne is also popular among general consumers. Although coats range from 4 to 6 million won and shirts are priced around 1 million won, they sell out quickly in Korea due to high demand. The reason Thom Browne chose Korea (Hyundai Department Store Apgujeong Main Branch) for its first overseas store in 2011 is precisely because of its strong domestic popularity.
A special performance commemorating the Galaxy Z Flip Thom Browne Edition. Photo by Thom Browne website capture
A recent example confirming Thom Browne’s popularity in Korea is Samsung Electronics’ release of the “Galaxy Z Flip Thom Browne Edition.” Despite its price approaching 3 million won, the website crashed due to a flood of visitors as soon as sales began. Ultimately, this edition sold out shortly after launch.
Samsung Electronics announced after the sell-out, “Despite the unstable access environment, all prepared quantities were sold out thanks to customers’ interest.”
Thom Browne’s Symbol: The 'Three-Color Stripe' of Red, White, and Blue
Thom Browne is symbolized by a three-color stripe of red, white, and blue, reminiscent of the French flag reversed. This three-color stripe is widely used on cardigans, handbags, perfumes, and more, becoming an iconic design unique to Thom Browne.
Another signature of Thom Browne is “gray.” Thom Browne emphasizes sophistication by using gray in jackets, knits, pants, and other garments. In particular, the “gray tone-on-tone look,” which layers different shades of gray, is one of Thom Browne’s distinctive features. Models wearing gray suits are frequently seen in Thom Browne’s advertising videos.
Details in the clothing also attract consumers. Thom Browne’s buttons are intricately decorated. The brand’s signature three-color stripe pattern is applied even to the buttons, and the finishing stitches at the hems are made inconspicuous, enhancing a clean look.
Thom Browne Teaches Consumers 'How to Wear Suits'
Thom Browne strives to help consumers wear garments stylishly. They have created a “suit-wearing manual” to share with customers and provide guidelines on how to wear various garments such as pants and cardigans. This effort aims to reproduce the fit consumers desired at the time of purchase.
Thom Browne’s suit-wearing tips include: ▲ Do not button the collar button of the shirt ▲ Wear the tie without buttoning the first shirt button ▲ Use the tie clip between the shirt collar and the middle of the pants waistband ▲ Leave the jacket pocket flap outside.
When wearing Thom Browne pants: ▲ Do not wear a belt ▲ Do not wear socks; if necessary, wear solid black socks ▲ Adjust the pants length to show the ankle bone and cuff about 7 cm.
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