[Jo Yongjun's Journey] A Midsummer Night, a Shining Palace, an Excited Heart

Enjoying the Charm of Suwon Hwaseong Haenggung Palace Under the Moonlight

[Asia Economy Reporter Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist] The scenery after darkness falls captivates travelers' hearts with a charm quite different from the daytime. The special emotions that night brings, combined with dazzling lights, create a dreamy atmosphere. Especially when lights turn on throughout the palace, it blooms into a scene like from a fairy tale. Strolling through the ancient palace under the moonlight offers indescribable joy and romance. Let's head to the sweet summer night dream of Suwon Hwaseong Haenggung Palace. Hwaseong transforms magnificently at night. The 5.5km fortress wall surrounding the city is illuminated, making it more grand and enchanting. Near Hwaseong Haenggung, there are many places to visit such as the workshop street and the birthplace of Na Hye-seok. You must not miss Suwon Chicken Street either. The savory aroma wafts from long-established chicken shops like Maehyang Chicken, Yongseong Chicken, Jinmi Chicken, and Nammun Chicken.

After the rainy season ends, the real heat arrives. At times like this, night is more welcome than day. If you want to enjoy a special walk in the gentle breeze, head to Suwon Hwaseong Haenggung (Historic Site No. 478). It is beautiful during the day, but at night, the subtle lighting creates a fantastic atmosphere. Walking quietly through the palace under the moonlight revives your body and mind tired from the heat, and sharing stories with loved ones builds fresh memories.

Hwaseong Haenggung is a night view spot loved equally by friends, couples, and family travelers. It was selected as one of the 'Top 100 Night Tourism Spots' by the Korea Tourism Organization. Last year, its popularity grew through word of mouth due to night openings. This year, lighting and sound effects have been arranged more meticulously to prepare a more charming night view.

The Haenggung was a temporary palace where the king stayed and was also used as a government office. Thanks to its elegant and dignified architecture, Hwaseong Haenggung has appeared several times in movies and dramas such as 'The King and the Clown,' 'Dae Jang Geum,' and 'Yi San.'

The unique charm of Hwaseong Haenggung can be seen from sunset. When lights turn on throughout the palace, it creates a fairy tale-like atmosphere. The night walk at Hwaseong Haenggung starts at Sinpungnu (新豊樓), which means 'the king's new hometown.' Upon entering the palace, you will notice a sculpture shaped like the moon next to the words 'Moonlight Jeongdam.'

Following the gracefully glowing lanterns leads to Bongsudang (奉壽堂), where King Jeongjo held his mother Lady Hyegyeong's 60th birthday celebration. It is the central building of Hwaseong Haenggung, and unlike last year, soft lighting has been installed indoors to add a sense of mystery. You stop to admire the dreamy beauty of Bongsudang, feeling as if someone might come out of the room. Imagining Lady Hyegyeong and King Jeongjo having a conversation in Bongsudang, you move on to the next place.

Next to Bongsudang is Noraedang (老來堂), built by King Jeongjo for his old age. The name means 'old age comes.' When darkness falls, an 11 to 14-minute video is screened, telling the fascinating story of Suwon Hwaseong and King Jeongjo's royal procession. Next to Noraedang is Naknamheon (洛南軒), a building that was not damaged during the Japanese colonial period when Hwaseong Haenggung was demolished. It hosted special civil service exams and military gatherings. In front of Naknamheon is a photo zone called 'Moon Rabbit Rest Area.' Here, a full moon light is installed, making it a great spot to take commemorative photos and enjoy the palace night.

From Naknamheon, cheongsachorong (traditional Korean lanterns) light up the darkness. Climbing the stairs toward Mirohanjeong (未老閒亭), nestled in the forest, you see the neat palace roofs blending with the dazzling city lights. The breeze from the forest refreshes your mood, and the sound of insects calms your heart. Butterfly shapes flicker on the ground. Immersed in the nostalgic atmosphere, you reach Mirohanjeong, which overlooks the entire Hwaseong Haenggung and Suwon city center. It is the moment when the romance of a midsummer night is complete. Take a moment to sit on the pavilion and relax. It feels as if a small crack gently opens in your heart.

The last place to visit is Hwaryeongjeon (華寧殿, Historic Site No. 115). It houses King Jeongjo's portrait and is simple but sturdy. Hwaryeongjeon's Unhangak (雲漢閣), Bokdogak (複道閣), and Iancheong (移安廳) were designated Treasure No. 2035 last year. To highlight the modest yet dignified building, special attention was given to the exterior lighting. Unlike the Korean traditional music flowing through Hwaseong Haenggung, Hwaryeongjeon features a poignant daegeum (bamboo flute) solo. Walking around Hwaryeongjeon with the daegeum melody deepens your thoughts endlessly. Due to COVID-19, it operates as a non-face-to-face viewing experience. Unlike last year, no internal experience events are held.

Suwon Hwaseong (Historic Site No. 3) also transforms magnificently at night. The 5.5km fortress wall surrounding the city is illuminated, making it more majestic. Especially, the section from Hwaseomun (華西門) to Janganmun (長安門) is almost flat, making it good for a light walk while enjoying the fortress night view. The four main gates, including Janganmun and Paldalmun (八達門), are also lit up, making them more solemn. Banghwasuryujeong (訪花隨柳亭, Treasure No. 1709) and Yongyeon (龍淵) areas are popular night stroll spots. The peaceful scenes of people whispering and chatting are heartwarming. From July, the video lighting project 'Path of Light' operates around Hwakhongmun (華虹門) and Banghwasuryujeong.

If you want to see the fortress night view all at once, try the tethered helium balloon 'Flying Suwon.' The night view of Suwon from 150 meters above is so breathtaking that you can't stop exclaiming. From the sky, the winding fortress walls are even more impressive. The thrilling experience is a bonus. Operation depends on weather, so check in advance.

There are many places to visit near Hwaseong Haenggung. Standing with your back to Hwaseong Haenggung, the charming workshop street is on the right, and the birthplace of Na Hye-seok is on the left. At the workshop street, you can view and experience various works such as folk paintings, embroidery, ceramics, and woodworking. After exploring the workshop street, head to Na Hye-seok's birthplace. Na Hye-seok was Korea's first female Western-style painter. You can see the birthplace decorated with flowers and the alley walls painted with Na Hye-seok's works. Around Na Hye-seok's birthplace, there are rooftop cafes with views of the fortress and quaint accessory shops, making it a popular dating spot.

You must not miss Suwon Chicken Street across from Hwaseong Haenggung. The savory aroma wafts from long-established chicken shops like Maehyang Chicken, Yongseong Chicken, Jinmi Chicken, and Nammun Chicken. Thanks to the movie 'Extreme Job,' Wang Galbi Chicken gained attention, but the crispy fried chicken remains popular. Tasting a freshly fried piece of chicken makes you nod in agreement why Suwon Chicken Street is famous.

Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist jun21@asiae.co.kr

◇Travel Notes

△Getting There=From the Seoul metropolitan area, exit at Dong Suwon IC, then follow Changryong-daero and Jeongjo-ro to reach Hwaseong Haenggung Plaza. For public transportation, take the train from Seoul Station to Suwon Station via KTX, Saemaeul, or Mugunghwa trains running frequently (05:56~22:55), about 30 minutes.

From Suwon Station Exit 4 bus stop, take buses 11, 13, or 35 and get off at Hwaseong Haenggung stop. It is about a 500m walk to Hwaseong Haenggung.

△Attractions=Hwaseong Haenggung night opening operates until October 30 from 6:00 PM to 9:30 PM (closed Mondays and Tuesdays). Admission is possible with the Hwaseong Haenggung entrance fee (Adults 1,500 KRW, Youth 1,000 KRW, Children 700 KRW).

A same-day course is Suwon Hwaseong → Na Hye-seok Birthplace → Workshop Street → Suwon Hwaseong Haenggung → Suwon Chicken Street. A 1-night 2-day course is Workshop Street → Na Hye-seok Birthplace → Suwon Hwaseong Haenggung → Suwon Hwaseong (Changryongmun - Banghwasuryujeong - Janganmun - Hwaseomun) → Suwon Chicken Street. For inquiries, contact Suwon City Hall Tourism Division at 031-228-2087.