[Jo Yongjun's Journey Manli] There Is a Path, Inside That Island

4 Islands for Walking That Clear Your Mind and Body When You're Feeling Exhausted

The Trail to Janggunbong Peak on Maemuldo Island

[Asia Economy Reporter Yongjun Cho] Due to the novel coronavirus disease (COVID-19), more people are seeking quiet places such as mountains, rivers, forests, and islands. Among them, walking trips on islands are especially popular. For those physically and mentally exhausted by COVID-19, walking trips offer a personal healing experience. Walking is not just about moving from one place to another. Some walk to organize their thoughts, others to enjoy the scenery. When walking, the landscape passes by slowly, and every corner of the scenery catches the eye. While walking, one may also have new experiences on the path. These are all pleasures that walking provides. Meanwhile, the Korea Tourism Organization has recommended four great walking trails under the theme 'Walking on islands that clear your mind' for those struggling due to COVID-19. These include the Bolumdo Trail on Ganghwa Island, Gangwon-do; Haenuri Trail on Ulleungdo Island, Gyeongbuk; and Bireong Trail on Geumodo Island, Jeonnam. For detailed information such as ferry schedules and pier locations, check the Korea Tourism Organization’s official website 'Travel Route Safety Guide' before setting off.

◇Incheon Ganghwa Island - Ganghwa Nadeulgil Course 13 Bolumdo Trail

In early summer, when everything turns lush green, there is a certain longing for a quiet island trip. The Ganghwa Nadeulgil Course 13, Bolumdo Trail, is a great walking island trail near Seoul, accessible by a one-hour ferry ride from Oepo-ri, Ganghwa, Incheon. Bolumdo is a small island located at the westernmost part of Ganghwa County along with Achado, Jumundo, and Maldo, where about 270 residents in 160 households live closely-knit in a small island village.

The Bolumdo Trail is a circular route of 13.6 km (about 5 hours) starting and ending at Bolumdo Pier, passing through Jogaegol and Gaetnonddeul. Signposts and ribbons along the path guide walkers, making it easy even for first-timers to follow. However, some forested mountain paths are not well maintained, so caution is advised for safety.

There are two treasures on the Bolumdo Trail. One is an 800-year-old large ginkgo tree, and the other is Jogaegol Beach. The large Seodo Ginkgo Tree, a natural monument No. 304, can be found while walking along the embankment crossing Bolumdo Reservoir and the sea, and it is enormous in size. Jogaegol Beach is famous for its abundance of clams, and if you book through nearby guesthouses, you can participate in paid mudflat experiences. If the weather is good, you can also enjoy a fantastic sunset, so don’t miss it.

△Course: Bolumdo Pier - Mureomgot - Jogaegol - Geomugol - Yooksan - Ginkgo Tree - Jintteul - Batbawitteul - Gaetnonddeul - Dangaerae Village - Bolumdo Pier (13.6 km)

◇Gyeongbuk Ulleungdo - Haenuri Trail Haengnam Coastal Walkway

Ulleungdo’s Haengnam Coastal Walkway is one of the 'Korea Coastal Trails' selected by the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries and the Korea Maritime Foundation. The Korea Coastal Trails are chosen not as artificially constructed walking paths but from natural or already developed coastal routes with beautiful surrounding scenery where visitors can experience Korea’s maritime culture and history. The Haengnam Coastal Walkway was selected in 2011 for its eco-friendly construction method and the ability to enjoy Ulleungdo’s pristine forests, unique rock formations, and the East Sea simultaneously.

The walkway starts from Dodong Port and originally extended to the northern Jeodong Port, but a section (Haengnam Lighthouse to Jeodong Port) is currently closed due to rockfalls. Restoration work is ongoing, so until completion, walkers must turn back at Haengnam Lighthouse and return to Dodong Port. Also, access is restricted during bad weather due to rockfall risks, so it is advisable to check the Ulleung County Office website in advance for any closures. The round-trip course is 2.6 km and takes about 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours.

Along the walkway, you can see various rocks and landforms characteristic of the volcanic island Ulleungdo, with detailed explanations about their formation on information boards.

One of the walkway’s attractive sights is the large sea-eroded caves carved into the cliffs. Inside the caves, the sea water splashes, and the blue sea sparkles dazzlingly white as the waves break. Among them is a huge cave that the walkway passes through, where the towering black rock formations create an imposing atmosphere. After the cliff path ends, a 20-minute hike up the mountain trail leads to the summit where Haengnam Lighthouse stands. Currently, to prevent the spread of COVID-19, entry to the lighthouse is prohibited, but from behind the lighthouse, you can enjoy a panoramic view of Jeodong Port and Chotdaebawi Rock.

△Course: Dodong Port - Haengnam Rest Area - Haengnam Lighthouse - Soragye Stairs - Chotdaebawi Rock (2.6 km)

◇Jeonnam Yeosu - Geumodo Bireong Trail Course 1

On Geumodo Island in Yeosu, Jeollanam-do, there is the 'Bireong Trail' along the cliffs rising on the island’s west coast. 'Bireong' is a dialect word meaning cliff, named after the shape of the trail. Bireong Trail Course 1 starts from Hamgumi Port. You can take a passenger ferry (about 1 hour 30 minutes) that operates three times daily from Yeosu Coastal Passenger Terminal directly to Bireong Trail Course 1. Alternatively, you can take a passenger ferry (about 20 minutes) that operates seven times daily from Dolsando Singi Pier to Geumodo Yeocheon Passenger Terminal, then transfer by village bus to Hamgumi Port.

Bireong Trail Course 1 is a non-circular walking path of about 5 km from Hamgumi Port to Dupo Village, starting with a small uphill before heading toward the island’s western cliffs. The trail skillfully skirts the cliff edges and repeatedly passes through deep forests with the sea behind. The path is generally flat, making it pleasant to walk while enjoying Geumodo’s spectacular scenery. Especially, the cliff-edge viewpoints encountered along the way offer breathtaking, wide-open views that clear the mind.

The trail also has interesting stories. There is a legend that the Goryeo Dynasty monk Bojoguksa built a temple called Songgwangsa somewhere along the middle of Bireong Trail Course 1. Additionally, traces of the island’s traditional burial method called chobun (草墳), where the deceased is covered with grass or straw, have been restored to give visitors a glimpse into the island’s culture. Geumodo is also known as a production area for Bangpungnamul (Siler), a local herb. Along the trail, there is a restaurant that uses Bangpungnamul to make various snacks.

△Course: Hamgumi - Miyeokneolbang - Songgwangsa Temple Site - Sinsundae - Dupo (5 km)

◇Gyeongnam Tongyeong - Hallyeohaesang Sea 100-ri Trail Course 5 Maemuldo Haepum Trail

Somaemuldo is a great place to escape the bustling city and enjoy the quiet charm of nature on an island.

If you take the first ferry from Tongyeong Passenger Terminal and then the second ferry back, you can spend about 4 hours on the island, which is enough time to leisurely walk the 'Maemuldo Haepum Trail (5.2 km)'. For backpackers, staying overnight at the closed school’s playground is ideal. It is better to ascend from Daehang Village, where the slope is gentle. Upon entering the playground, visitors are greeted by hydrangeas in full bloom and stunning sea views thanks to the early summer sunshine. After walking for a while, you reach a lookout point with sea views in all directions. Many people rest at the pavilion there.

Along the course, you will find plenty of spots to rest and take memorable photos, so it’s good to bring a light camera. Walking on an island is refreshing despite the summer heat, as you can enjoy the cool sea breeze.

△Course: Danggum Village - Janggunbong Peak - Daehang Village (5.2 km)

Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist jun21@asiae.co.kr