[Jo Yongjun's Travel Miles] Spring is Delicious, Jangheung Specialty You Can't Stop Eating Once You Try

Jeonnam Jangheung, a Refreshing Spring Journey with Abundant Attractions and Activities

In Jangheung, Cheongwansan Camellia Forest is well known, but the Camellia Forest in Mukchon-ri, located at the entrance of Yongsan-myeon village, is also a famous spot. Walking along the path covered with fallen red camellia flowers allows you to enjoy the spring.

The green-colored sorghum and the barley field turning golden in the fields of Daedeok-myeon

If you visit Jangheung, you must try the local delicacies: Maesaengi Rice Cake Soup, Jangheung Samhap, and Cheongtaejeon (from left in the photo).

The sunset is setting behind the cypress tree encountered on the path to Pyeonghwa Dawon.

The red plum blossoms have fully bloomed at Haneulbit Arboretum.

Borimsa Temple with Cheongtaejeon Tea Road

Fishermen are processing gim growing in the clean sea.

Jangheung Samhap, a local specialty grown in Jangheung, consisting of grilled Korean beef, shiitake mushrooms, and pen shell clams eaten together

Cheongtaejeon of Jangheung Dayewon

[Asia Economy Reporter Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist] It is the threshold of spring. Even without impatience, the blowing wind is filled with the scent of spring. We head to Jangheung in Jeonnam Province. Jangheung is a place with fragrance. It carries the literary scent emitted by Korea’s modern literary masters such as Lee Cheong-jun, Song Gi-seok, and Han Seung-won. The cypress forest Wood Land and the camellia forest of Cheongwansan Mountain offer the scent of well-being. The fragrance of Jangheung is not only about seeing and enjoying. The scent given by taste is just as wonderful. This week’s journey is about that taste. No matter how good the scenery or well-being is, if you miss the taste, you feel empty. That is why travelers who consider themselves experienced often choose 'famous restaurants' first and then look for nearby travel spots. It means that even if other things fail, they want to make sure to enjoy the 'taste.' The taste of Jangheung comes above all from fresh ingredients. Ingredients from the clean sea, mountains, and land abound. From Jangheung Samhap, which combines pen shell clams grown in Deukryang Bay, shiitake mushrooms, and Korean beef, to maesaengi seaweed, cuttlefish, octopus, oysters, and clams, the list is endless. Among these, Jangheung Samhap and Maesaengi Soup rank first and second among Jangheung’s nine delicacies. And there is also Cheongtaejeon, a wild fermented tea that has been passed down for a thousand years. When wild tea fermented under the eaves is brewed in a teapot, the aroma is deep and the taste is mild. At the threshold of spring, we head to Jangheung in search of rich and full flavors.

#Maesaengi - Green tinted with spring light, spring must be coming

In Jangheung, at the southernmost tip, is Naejeo Village in Daedeok-eup. It is said to be the place where maesaengi seaweed farming first began in Korea. Maesaengi grows well in curved areas where waves calm down and where seawater and freshwater mix. The sea in front of Naejeo Village, shaped like a jar, is considered the best place. Upon entering Naejeo Village, you see 'maldae' (wooden stakes) densely installed in the sea for maesaengi cultivation, and the pier is filled with the fragrance of freshly harvested maesaengi. As the maesaengi harvest is about to finish by the end of this month, fishermen are busy harvesting the green maesaengi tinted with spring light. Villagers say that when the maesaengi harvest ends, spring begins.

Maesaengi is a pure Korean word meaning 'to pick fresh moss right away.' It is like a 'cousin' to gim (laver), parae (green laver), and gamtae (a type of seaweed). Jeong Yak-jeon described maesaengi in 'Jasaneobo' as 'finer than silkworm threads and denser than steel hairs, reaching a length of several feet. Its color is dark green, and when boiled into soup, it is soft and tender, very sweet and fragrant.'

Maesaengi is difficult to keep fresh for 3 to 5 days at room temperature in winter after harvesting. Recently, freezing technology has advanced so it can be enjoyed year-round anywhere, but it cannot compare to the taste of eating it fresh in season at the production site.

In Jangheung, maesaengi soup is boiled thickly until the broth is almost invisible. The city-style maesaengi soup, boiled lightly so the strands are visible, cannot compare. Maesaengi soup, made by boiling freshly harvested maesaengi with oysters, is the best nutritious dish and delicacy. The umami flavor slides down the throat without needing to chew, making it impossible to stop using chopsticks.

Maesaengi rice cake soup is also made by adding rice cake slices, or maesaengi pancakes and maesaengi kalguksu (knife-cut noodles) are enjoyed. To taste maesaengi soup, visit restaurants in the town. Although there are no restaurants specializing only in maesaengi dishes, most restaurants in Jangheung Saturday Market serve maesaengi soup, maesaengi rice cake soup, and maesaengi pancakes.

#Jangheung’s specialty-grown Samhap - Korean beef, pen shell scallops, and shiitake mushrooms, a fantastic harmony

Among everyday expressions, there is the phrase 'hap-i matda' meaning 'to be in harmony.' It expresses things that go well together. Especially, 'samhap' means three things that blend perfectly. In Jangheung, there is a samhap where Korean beef, pen shell scallops, and shiitake mushrooms are wrapped together. This is the 'Jangheung Samhap,' an essential part of Jangheung’s taste. Once you try it, it has a mysterious power that makes you want to eat it every time you visit. All three ingredients in the samhap are Jangheung specialties.

Korean beef itself is a top delicacy. There are more Korean cattle raised than the population of Jangheung. Shiitake mushrooms grown in a clean, pollution-free area also represent Jangheung. The pen shell scallops, harvested from Deukryang Bay, have a strong sea aroma. These Korean beef, shiitake mushrooms, and pen shell scallops come together.

On a heated grill, a slice of Korean beef and a plump shiitake mushroom soaked with moisture are placed, and the pen shell scallop is dipped in broth. When the meat juice oozes out, flip and cook lightly. Wrap the meat, shiitake, and pen shell scallop in lettuce and put it in your mouth. The soft and mild Korean beef is enhanced by the subtle unique flavor of shiitake mushrooms. The chewy yet refreshing taste of the pen shell scallop acts as a palate cleanser for what could be a heavy flavor. Thus, the somewhat unfamiliar combination of the three ingredients creates a harmonious taste. They really go well together. Dipping in soy sauce mixed with mustard or salt sauce brings out even more flavor.

#Cheongtaejeon - The deep aroma of wild fermented tea made over a thousand years

There is a taste gaining popularity in Jangheung these days. It is Cheongtaejeon (靑苔錢), a wild fermented tea developed around Jangheung from the Three Kingdoms period to modern times. The name means 'a coin-shaped tea with blue moss.' It does not actually have moss, but during fermentation, it turns bluish and looks like moss.

Green tea is generally made by picking tea leaves and roasting them in a cauldron, but Cheongtaejeon is made by steaming wild tea leaves, pounding them in a mortar, and shaping them into round coin-like forms. After undergoing fermentation in an earthenware pot or under the eaves, the tea’s taste becomes mild and the aroma is excellent.

Usually, it can be drunk after one year of fermentation, but to taste proper Cheongtaejeon, it is best to drink tea fermented for about three years.

Cheongtaejeon is a tightly compressed fermented tea, so it is better to boil it rather than steep it repeatedly. Pour 1 liter of water over one coin-shaped tea piece and boil it, drinking it as needed. There are several places where you can taste and experience making Cheongtaejeon, notably Jangheung Dayewon and Pyeonghwa Dawon.

The history of Jangheung Cheongtaejeon began at Borimsa Temple, where Seon Buddhism first settled in Korea. During the Goryeo Dynasty, Jangheung had the most villages called 'daso' that produced tea. At the center is Borimsa Temple, surrounded by wild tea fields. Even now, behind Borimsa Temple, where the grand Bija forest continues, there is a Cheongtaejeon Tea Road. After having a cup of tea, it is good to visit Borimsa Temple and walk through the wild tea fields in the Bija forest. The Cheongtaejeon Tea Road is especially beautiful from April to May when new tea leaves sprout.

Jangheung = Text and photos by Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist jun21@asiae.co.kr

◇Travel Notes

△Getting there=From Seoul or the metropolitan area, take the Gyeongbu Expressway, then Cheonan-Nonsan Expressway, Honam Expressway, Suncheon-Wanju Expressway, Yeongam-Suncheon Expressway, and exit at Jangheung Interchange. It takes about 4 hours 30 minutes to 5 hours.

△Attractions=Cheongwansan Mountain in Jangheung is one of the five major mountains in Honam. There is a camellia tree colony here. It is the largest camellia forest with 20,000 trees aged 50 to 200 years. Nearby Yongsan-myeon and Mukchon-myeon are also famous for camellia flowers. At the village entrance, there are about 140 camellia trees. Walking along the camellia flower path, where fallen flowers cover the ground in red, you can enjoy spring.

Jeongnamjin Cypress Forest Wood Land is a representative healing spot in Jangheung. It is a 100-hectare area planted with cypress trees known for emitting abundant phytoncides and negative ions, which are good for health.

Sodeung Island, right in front of Nampo Village, is also worth visiting. Deukryang Bay’s sea seems within reach. It is said that the island was named Sodeung (small light) because fishermen’s wives lit lanterns to guide their husbands safely back from fishing in the distant sea.

The Jeongnamjin Observatory, which offers a panoramic view of the Dadohae (Korean Archipelago), was built to overlook the sea at the southern tip of the land directly south of Gwanghwamun. From the top, you can see Deukryang Bay, Sorokdo, Geogeumdo, Geumdangdo, Pyeongildo, and islands of Goheung and Wando. Other attractions include Jangheung Saturday Market, Lee Cheong-jun’s birthplace, Han Seung-won Literary Road, Millennium Crane Film Set (photo), Cheongwansan Mountain, and Seonhakdong Village.