The Drink Everyone Tries in Japan... Over 100 Years of "The Taste of First Love" [Sunday Culture]

A Lactic Acid Beverage Developed in 1919... Established as a National Drink
Introduced to Gyeongseong in the 1930s... Also Featured in Korean Novels

If there is a beverage that everyone tries at least once when traveling to Japan, it is probably "Calpis (カルピス)." It is sold in bars as "Calpis Sour," a mix of alcohol and soda, and is also available in various forms at convenience stores, such as carbonated Calpis. Although Calpis itself is non-carbonated, when mixed with sparkling water, its taste is said to be similar to Korea's "Milkis" or "Ambasa," which is why it is sometimes referred to as "Japanese Milkis."

In fact, Calpis is a lactic acid bacteria drink developed in 1919, making it over 100 years old. It even appeared in Korean novels written in the 1930s. Today, let's explore the story of Calpis, Japan's national beverage.

Calpis promotional image. Featuring a mother and child, fitting the image of a "national beverage." Calpis.

Fermented Milk Once Drunk by Nomads: The Original Inspiration

The roots of Calpis can be traced back to a dairy drink consumed by Mongolian nomads. Kaiun Mishima, the creator of Calpis, originally ran a general store and visited Inner Mongolia in 1908 for business purposes. During his stay, he became increasingly fatigued, and his digestion worsened. Local nomads offered him a drink made by fermenting livestock milk with lactic acid bacteria. After drinking it daily, his digestion improved and he regained his energy. He later recalled, "My previously poor stomach condition noticeably improved, my insomnia disappeared, my body and mind felt refreshed, and I even gained weight. It felt as if I had discovered an elixir of immortality." This experience convinced Mishima of the power of lactic acid bacteria. Upon returning to Japan, he decided to independently develop a beverage containing lactic acid bacteria.

Initially, he developed a fermented cream using lactic acid bacteria. In 1916, he launched a product called "Daigomi," which in Japanese means "true flavor" or "the ultimate taste." This term is used in Buddhism and Hinduism to refer to a dairy product. When milk is fermented, it is said to develop flavors over five stages, with the highest stage called "Jeho." In Japan, the taste of Jeho is referred to as Daigomi. Today, the exact nature of Jeho and why it is considered the ultimate taste remains unclear, but some speculate that it refers to "ghee," a clarified butter made by continuous boiling and refining.

The appearance of Calpis when it was released in 1919. The design is quite different from the current one. Calpis.

The following year, he released "Daigosu," a product made by fermenting leftover skim milk from the Daigomi factory with lactic acid bacteria. By refining the flavor and adding calcium, which was lacking in the Japanese diet, an entirely new beverage was born. The aforementioned Jeho is called "sarpir-manda" in Sanskrit, and the preceding dairy product is known as "sarpirs." By combining "calcium" and "sarpirs," the name "Calpis" was created.

Currently, Calpis is produced through the following process. First, fat is removed from raw milk to make skim milk, which is then fermented using a proprietary "Calpis bacteria" for the first fermentation. This process gives it a sour taste due to the lactic acid bacteria. Next, sugar is added for a second fermentation. During this stage, yeast acts to create the unique aroma of Calpis. After this, additional flavors are added to complete the Calpis we know today. It was introduced to the market on July 7, 1919.

Calpis concentrate currently distributed on the market. Rakuten.

A Catchphrase That Broke Taboos... Becoming a National Beverage Through Earthquake Relief

Calpis began gaining popularity as a new and healthy beverage. Its unique catchphrase also contributed to its success. A year after its release, a junior colleague of Mishima suggested, "The taste of Calpis is sweet and unforgettable. Why not promote it as the taste of first love?"

However, at that time in Japan, openly discussing love in public was not socially acceptable. Mishima also hesitated, saying, "Isn't it a bit strange to call the taste of a drink for children the taste of love?" His colleague persisted, "If a child asks, just say the taste of first love is the taste of Calpis." Thus, Calpis boldly adopted the catchphrase "The Taste of First Love."

An advertisement for Calpis promoted with the catchphrase "The Taste of First Love." Calpis.

This created a significant social stir. In Osaka, the police even requested that posters be toned down, saying "romantic expressions should be avoided." However, this was a time when freedom and romanticism were spreading amidst a conservative social atmosphere. Despite some criticism, "The Taste of First Love" resonated with young people and became increasingly popular, establishing Calpis as the drink of so-called "modern girls" and "modern boys."

Then, on September 1, 1923, the Great Kanto Earthquake struck. At the time, there was a shortage of drinking water, and the late summer heat was intense. The Calpis factory supported evacuees by mixing water, ice, and Calpis for them. This further enhanced the beverage's positive image.

As Japan entered a period of rapid economic growth, it became customary for every household to keep Calpis on hand. Since the concentrate could be stored at room temperature, it was commonly found in kitchen cupboards. In fact, one market survey even found that 99.7% of Japanese people had tried Calpis. In any case, to maintain a consistent taste, Calpis continues to culture its lactic acid bacteria and fermentation "starter" from the original strain, much like how traditional soy sauce is perpetually extended by adding new batches.

Appearing in Korean Novels... Served in Cafes in Gyeongseong

Calpis was also introduced to Korea. In the 1930s, cafes in Gyeongseong (now Seoul) reportedly served Calpis. This scene appears in Park Taewon's novel "A Day in the Life of Novelist Gubo." Upon meeting an old classmate by chance and entering a cafe, Gubo is offered Calpis ("Garupisu") by his friend, but declines and chooses tea or coffee instead. His reason is that he dislikes its suggestive color and taste. In reality, if someone did not like the taste of coffee at the time, they would often order Calpis instead.

Various Calpis beverage lines currently available on the market. Calpis.

In retrospect, Calpis was launched in the same year as the March 1st Movement in Korea in 1919, and gained national support during the Great Kanto Earthquake, so it may not be a particularly pleasant story for Koreans. During the Japanese colonial period, some Koreans studied in Japan, and there were undoubtedly complex feelings and a sense of distance experienced by these students.

Perhaps Gubo's refusal to drink Calpis reflected this subtle sense of resistance. Although it is a national beverage promoted as "The Taste of First Love," it is also layered with other memories and emotions. As a drink with a long history, it has accumulated its own layers of time and context.