[AKyung Wine Cellar] The Art Born from Difference... The Essence of 'Bordeaux Blend'

1840 Bordeaux N?gociant and Wine House
The Art of Blending Born from Obsession with 'Essence'
'Numero Un', the Bestseller That Made the Dourthe Name Renowned

Editor's NoteNo two wines under the sky are the same. Even when using grapes grown in the same land each year, fermented and aged in the same way, the results differ every time. Wine is a 'drink of chance' created by the harmony of humans and nature. Each wine that silently disappears after leaving only a single intense memory carries an intriguing story. 'Akyung Wine Cellar' shares one by one the stories of wines that are made and matured according to their unique circumstances.

The exterior view of the 'Chateau Belgrave' winery owned by Maison Durutte.

"Monotheism, monomania, monogamy, monotony. Nothing good starts with the word 'mono.' A monogram is a symbol of vanity. Monocle is the same. Monoculture is a harbinger of the demise of European rural areas."

In British novelist Julian Barnes' book Nothing to Be Frightened Of, the narrator Neil meets Professor Elizabeth Finch during an adult education class. Finch, who refuses to teach by stuffing facts into students' heads like feeding a goose, is an adult who transforms small thoughts into something interesting, and Neil is captivated by her.

The scene of moving grapes to the winery after harvest at 'Chateau La Garde,' owned by Maison Durutte.

One day in class, Professor Finch lists words beginning with 'mono,' meaning one or single, and says, "When this prefix is attached to human affairs, it always ends in disaster over time." She cites monoculture, the cultivation of a single crop, as an example. She mentions Phylloxera, the grapevine root louse that shook the foundation of the wine industry in the 19th and 20th centuries, pointing out that despite the high efficiency of monoculture, its vulnerability can lead to extinction due to unforeseen crises.

She also critiques monoculture for facilitating hierarchy. Crops derived from a single seed share countless common traits, making it easy to rank them by a single standard. Conversely, when seeds are originally different, it is difficult to define relationships by a single criterion. Differences are the default, and with few inherent commonalities, it is hard to judge superiority; rather, it is better to focus on each one's unique individuality.

Grapes used in the production of Maison Dourthe's iconic wine, 'Essence de Dourthe'.

Professor Finch's observations remain a valid topic of debate in today's wine industry. One way to classify wine is by the number of grape varieties used in winemaking. 'Varietal' wines are made from a single grape variety, while 'blending' wines combine multiple varieties. In France, the birthplace of wine, Burgundy is the representative producer of varietal wines, while Bordeaux is the hallmark of blending wines.

Bordeaux stands at the opposite end of monoculture. Of course, the monoculture issue Professor Finch pointed out concerns different genera of grapes, whereas the wine industry deals with different grape varieties within the same genus. Also, within the wine industry, there is no competition over superiority between the two types. It is more about choosing the optimal method according to the terroir?the total natural environment surrounding the vineyard. Nevertheless, the debate between varietal and blending wines remains an eternal topic among industry professionals and enthusiasts alike. It encompasses producers' philosophies, enthusiasts' preferences, and various aspirations beyond that.

The Standard and Archetype of Blending Wine, 'Bordeaux Blend'

Bordeaux holds significance beyond being just a production region because it established the standard and archetype for various blended wines. Bordeaux typically blends five main grape varieties?Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot?in varying proportions depending on the region and producer. Wines made by blending these representative Bordeaux varieties are called 'Bordeaux Blend.' This term is also applied to wines made by blending these varieties outside Bordeaux, in other regions and countries, proving Bordeaux as the birthplace and center of blended wines.

Maison Dourthe's 'Numero 1 de Dourthe'

The climate plays a significant role in Bordeaux becoming synonymous with blended wines. Influenced by the Gulf Stream along the Atlantic coast, Bordeaux has a maritime climate with generally mild weather, especially warm summers and autumns with abundant sunlight. However, the weather during flowering in June and fruit formation is unpredictable, causing fluctuations in yield and susceptibility to fungal diseases. Rain during harvest can increase grape moisture, diluting flavor.

This climatic variability, especially the large differences in rainfall, is why Bordeaux avoids monoculture relying on a single variety. The various varieties grown in Bordeaux have different flowering and ripening times, allowing the avoidance of disasters that could ruin a year's crop due to severe frost or rain. In other words, it is risk diversification rather than putting all eggs in one basket.

Vineyard view of 'Maison Durutte'.

Bordeaux’s Blend Master for 180 Years, Dourthe

Among the many producers showcasing the aesthetics and charm of blending in Bordeaux, one notable name is 'Maison Dourthe.' Founded in 1840 by Pierre Dourthe, Maison Dourthe has, for over 180 years, established new standards in Bordeaux winemaking based on deep understanding of the region's terroir, excellent winemaking skills, and top-tier wine production quality, serving as a model for other producers.

The turning point for Maison Dourthe began in 1979 with the acquisition of 'Chateau Belgrave,' a Grand Cru Classe en 1855 winery. Generally, large n?gociants are called 'Maison,' and until then, Dourthe was a n?gociant that purchased grapes and wines in bulk from local growers and producers, then fermented, blended, aged, and bottled them in their own winery under their brand.

Exterior view of 'Chateau La Garde' owned by Maison Durutte.

However, starting with Chateau Belgrave and over several years, Dourthe acquired various wineries and estates within Bordeaux, creating an environment for large-scale, high-quality blending with the desired quality and quantity of grapes. Most importantly, they conducted in-depth research and experiments on the terroir of each vineyard parcel and the optimal grape varieties, significantly improving wine quality through tailored grape cultivation and management methods suited to each soil type. Naturally, their recognition and influence in the industry expanded. Currently, Dourthe owns a total of 500 hectares of vineyards, including nine wineries in Bordeaux.

Operating extensive vineyards across multiple wineries, Dourthe can perform cross-blending by vineyard parcel and winery. The wine made by gathering the best grapes from the finest plots is 'Essence de Dourthe.' Meaning 'essence,' Essence is made from grapes selected from four chateaux: Chateau Belgrave in Haut-Medoc, Chateau Le Boscq in Saint-Estephe, Chateau La Garde in Pessac-Leognan, and Chateau Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac in Saint-Emilion Grand Cru.

'Maison Durutte' owns nine wineries in the Bordeaux region.

Grapes selected from the finest 14 hectares of the four chateaux are transported to the winery after harvest, where stems are removed and grapes sorted. They undergo cold maceration in small oak barrels and stainless steel tanks for 4 to 24 hours before fermentation. To achieve absolute purity of the grapes and the best expression of terroir, oak barrel fermentation is conducted with utmost care, followed by 12 months of aging in new oak barrels. After final blending, the wine is aged for another 10 months to completion. Dourthe limits production of Essence to 6,000 bottles per vintage.

The latest vintage, Essence 2015, is blended with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. It has a deep, concentrated crimson color with intense aromas of ripe fresh blackberries, black cherries, black currants, and spices, offering a complex bouquet. On the palate, it is a full-bodied wine with rich flavor and smooth texture, balanced and refined with a long finish that leaves a lasting impression.

Maison Dourthe's iconic wine 'Essence de Dourthe 2015'

Finally, Bordeaux’s 'Numero Un' for Enthusiasts Emerges

While Essence is Dourthe's quintessence, the project that made the Dourthe name widely known worldwide is 'Numero 1 de Dourthe (N°1).' Numero Un was a project started with the goal of expanding the boundaries of Bordeaux wine without compromising on taste. In the 1980s, Bordeaux red wines were already world-class in quality and recognition, but white wines were in a different situation. Dourthe partnered with Professor Denis Dubourdieu of Bordeaux University's enology department to dispel doubts about Bordeaux whites and produce high-quality, reasonably priced dry Bordeaux white wines.

Professor Dubourdieu, who led the Bordeaux white wine revolution in the 1980s, actively introduced new techniques to extract all the potential the grapes could offer into the wine. A representative technique is Skin Contact. Skin Contact involves crushing and destemming grapes before alcoholic fermentation and transferring them to a cold tank to macerate with the skins for 4 to 24 hours. This extracts aromatic compounds from the skins, adding fruitiness and complexity to the wine.

Building on Professor Dubourdieu's innovations, Dourthe launched 'Numero 1 Sauvignon Blanc' in 1988. The arrival of Numero Un was praised by world-renowned wine critic Robert Parker as "finally a Bordeaux brand for true wine enthusiasts." Starting with Sauvignon Blanc, Numero Un expanded its lineup to include red and ros? blends from Bordeaux subregions such as Graves, Medoc, and Saint-Emilion, enjoying popularity as Dourthe's flagship wines for nearly 40 years.

"Passion for wine always brings an obsession with realizing ideals alongside the desire for better wine. Dourthe has dreamed of ideal wines made from the best grapes, the fruits of the finest terroir. Through artistic blending, we have created wines that represent the highest level Bordeaux can offer." (Patrick Jestin, CEO of Maison Dourthe)

The signature wine of Maison Dourthe, 'Numero 1 de Dourthe'.