[Agyeong Wine Cellar] 160 Years of Aura... The Pride of Spanish Wine

<4> Spain's 'Vega Sicilia'

Founded in 1864... Pride of Spanish Wine
Leading Ribera del Duero as Top Red Wine Region
10-Year Aged 'Unico'... A Unique Iconic Wine

Editor's NoteNo two wines under the sky are the same. Even when grapes grown on the same land each year are vinified and aged using the same methods, the results differ every time. Wine is a 'drink of chance' created through the harmony of humans and nature. Each wine that silently disappears after leaving only a single intense memory carries an intriguing story. 'Akyung Wine Cellar' shares one by one the stories of wines that are crafted and matured according to their unique circumstances.

"What is diminished in the age of technical reproducibility of art is the aura of the artwork. ... Reproductive technology replaces unique works with mass-produced copies. It allows the recipient to encounter the copy in an individual situation, thereby actualizing it. ... The mass production and actualization of copies have ultimately shaken tradition to its core."

Walter Benjamin, a German-Jewish philosopher, discussed the "decay of aura" in his essay "The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction (Das Kunstwerk im Zeitalter seiner technischen Reproduzierbarkeit)." Benjamin argued that the advent of reproduction technology led to the loss of the unique atmosphere inherent in an object, known as its aura. He stated that this loss of aura caused the collapse of the secularized consciousness that revered beauty as the essential value of art, and as a counterbalance, it allowed the public to access artworks that had previously been the exclusive domain of social elites. Thus, he viewed the loss of aura as serving the education of the masses.

However, setting aside the positive functions brought by the loss of aura, humans still yearn for aura. This is likely due to the longing for uniqueness that cannot be replaced by anything else, and the desire for something singular born from that uniqueness. Today, advances in viticulture and winemaking technology have made it possible to enjoy quality wines without spending a fortune. Yet, people still crave distinctive wines they have never encountered before, not just the ordinary wines commonly found around them. This desire stems from the aspiration to experience the ultimate fulfillment that only wines imbued with aura can provide.

Even in an era flooded with copies, there are wineries that maintain their aura and consistently emit a steady light. The uniqueness they have carefully built over 160 years is not only difficult to imitate but even if imitated, the expected aura is already absent. Aura has not disappeared; it is merely rare. If desire arises only when something is scarce, then for wine lovers, the winery where that desire surely resides is 'Vega Sicilia' in Ribera del Duero, Spain.

Oak fermentation tank of Vega Sicilia
Photo by Gu Eunmo

Ribera del Duero, Rising as the Heart of Spanish Wine

The Duero River (Rio Duero) is the longest and widest river on the Iberian Peninsula, originating in northeastern Spain, flowing through northern Portugal, and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean. Its nearly 1,000 km long watercourse has long been used for irrigation and maritime transport, providing a foundation for the growth of several wine regions along its banks. Ribera del Duero, meaning 'bank of the Duero River,' is one such wine region that developed along the river, with records indicating that the Phoenicians were making wine there as early as 1000 BCE, marking a long history intertwined with wine.

Scenery of Vega Sicilia vineyard in the Ribera del Duero region of Spain.
Photo by Eunmo Koo

Although wineries began to be established in the Ribera del Duero region and wine production started in the 13th century, modern winemaking in the contemporary sense dates back 160 years. Eloy Lecanda, who studied winemaking in Bordeaux, France, brought back large quantities of French grapevine cuttings, including Cabernet Sauvignon, to Spain. He planted about 18,000 vines on land east of Valladolid and began serious winemaking. This marked the beginning of Vega Sicilia in 1864.

Vega Sicilia took its current form after several ownership changes, with the Alvarez family acquiring the winery in 1982. Among them, Pablo Alvarez Mezquiriz is the most important figure in explaining today's Vega Sicilia. Since 1990, he has served as CEO, leading improvements in vineyards and winemaking facilities to enhance wine quality. Based on this, he conducted blind tastings against some of the world's finest wines to prove the quality of Vega Sicilia wines. Under his leadership, Vega Sicilia grew into a globally renowned winery beyond Spain and eventually earned the nickname "the Roman?e-Conti of Spain."

Old vines over 100 years old planted in the Vega Sicilia Hontanon vineyard.
[Photo by Eunmo Koo]

Additionally, Pablo Alvarez took on the challenge of establishing four new wineries?Alion, Pintia, Oremus, and Macan?alongside the original Vega Sicilia. As these five wineries produced attractive results through various experiments and trials in different regions, the company grew into the global wine group "TEMPOS Vega Sicilia," elevating its reputation and influence within the industry.

As Vega Sicilia's fame grew, interest in the Ribera del Duero region also increased within the wine industry. When Ribera del Duero first obtained the DO (Denominaci?n de Origen) status, the Spanish government's wine classification system, in 1982, there were only 24 wineries in the region. Today, centered around the dominant Vega Sicilia, the number has grown to over 300, marking solid growth.

"The Best Wine Comes from the Best Grapes"

A view of the Vega Sicilia 'Valdemerina' vineyard.
[Photo by Eunmo Koo]

Pablo Alvarez believes that the best wine can only be created from the best grapes. He trusts that only when healthy vines are planted in optimal soil and receive the best care can the finest wines be made. Indeed, during a visit to Vega Sicilia's vineyards on its 160th anniversary, the vineyards were carefully and meticulously managed, subdivided according to soil and terrain.

Ribera del Duero stretches nearly 100 km east to west along the river, and Vega Sicilia's vineyards are located in the southeastern part of the region, arranged as a single vineyard extending 750 meters east to west. Of the total 1,000 hectares, only about 210 hectares are planted with grapes, while the rest is maintained as forest to preserve biodiversity. Currently, 95% of the vineyard is planted with Tinto Fino, the local clone of the Spanish indigenous Tempranillo grape, and the remaining 5% is planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Malbec. Only grapes grown here are used to produce 'Unico' and 'Valbuena.'

Vega Sicilia's 'Tinto Fino'
Photo by Gu Eunmo

Vega Sicilia's vineyards are currently divided into 54 parcels, each managed in a way suitable for its specific area. Moreover, vines are planted in four directions according to altitude and slope, rather than a single orientation. Although this requires more labor-intensive pruning methods, it allows grapes to develop diverse characters and helps mitigate risks. This detailed vineyard management extends beyond the growing season; after harvest, grapes are sorted by parcel, and 54 different base wines are produced using 54 different methods tailored to each parcel's characteristics.

For example, one of the 54 parcels, Valdemerina, is described as "Love & Hate" by Ignacio Sanchez, the manager responsible for viticulture research and vineyard management at Vega Sicilia. He explains, "Valdemerina has relatively high soil acidity (pH), causing stress to the vines, making it a challenging area to manage. However, the soil is not uniform; each layer has distinct characteristics, producing grapes that add complexity to the wine."

Ignacio says, "A masterpiece artwork requires a variety of colors. If we liken wine to art, Vega Sicilia always aims to create the best work." He adds, "To cultivate grapes with diverse colors that form the foundation of a masterpiece wine, we implement customized management from pruning to cover cropping based on soil, planting location, and genetic diversity."

Ignacio Sanchez, Viticulture Manager, is explaining about the vineyard.
[Photo by Eunmo Gu]

'Unico'?A Timeless Classic

Vega Sicilia produces three wines: Unico, Unico Reserva Especial, and Valbuena. Considering that Unico Reserva Especial is generally made by blending three vintages of Unico, the winery essentially produces two main wines: Unico and Valbuena.

Vega Sicilia 'Unico 2014 Vintage'

Recently, with increased interest in micro-terroir and advanced winemaking and aging techniques, many wineries showcase their capabilities by emphasizing diversity and sometimes flaunting it. However, Vega Sicilia adapts and responds to changing times and trends in its own way. From firsthand observation, Vega Sicilia does not lazily produce old wines hidden behind the name of tradition but steadfastly presents the essence obtained through intense experimentation and endless challenges. This may reflect pride and confidence in the name they have built layer by layer, or it may be a trace of the aristocratic aura that has nearly vanished in the modern era.

Unico is synonymous with Vega Sicilia. Unico is Vega Sicilia, and Vega Sicilia is Unico. The winery pours all its efforts into Unico without reservation. The orderly and pristine Vega Sicilia winery silently but clearly demonstrates that this is the sanctuary of Spanish wine. Gonzalo Iturriaga de Juan, the technical director overseeing winemaking, describes himself as a "badly spoiled winemaker." He says, "It is a great fortune as a winemaker to be able to make wine in a place with perfect infrastructure where whatever you aim for can be realized."

Gonzalo Iturriaga de Juan, winemaker of Vega Sicilia
[Photo by Eunmo Koo]

Unico was developed from the start with long-term aging in mind. Its firm and robust style creates a timeless taste, making it an iconic wine that has marked a corner of history. The aroma is subtle and soft, but the flavor is rich and sweet. The complexity that gradually reveals itself with each sip reminds one that this wine is a timeless classic.

Since it only reveals itself to the world after ten years of patient aging, the maturation process is crucial. Director Gonzalo explains, "Depending on the character of the base wine, it is aged for about one year in 225-liter barrels classified as American or French, new or used oak. Then, through blending between barrels, it is aged for one year in large 20,000-liter barrels. Afterward, aging continues in different ways according to the style of the original wine, with tastings every three weeks to monitor its condition." The latest vintage of Unico currently on the market is the 2014 vintage, made by blending 94% Tinto Fino grown at altitudes of 700?900 meters with an average vine age of 35 years and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Overview of Vega Sicilia's wine cellar
Photo by Gu Eunmo

Unico symbolizes Vega Sicilia. However, this does not mean that Valbuena is inferior to Unico. Both wines come from the same vineyard and share the same roots. There is no insurmountable social distinction between Unico and Valbuena that causes them to be grown separately. Depending on the character of the base wine, it may become Unico or Valbuena. Director Gonzalo explains, "Robust wines with structure become Unico, while delicate and elegant wines mature into Valbuena." Even after returning to Korea, Valbuena lingered in my mind, and Director Gonzalo also expressed affection, saying, "My heart is with Valbuena."

Vega Sicilia 'Valbuena'
[Photo by Gu Eunmo]

"The Best Is Not Yet Complete"…Endless Challenges Over Comfort

Pablo Alvarez is a person who values long-term vision. For him, wines to be made this year are as important as those to be made next year and the year after. He stopped using herbicides in the 1980s, long before sustainability and organic farming became socially significant concerns, and banned insecticides in the 1990s. He has also planted and manages over 45 hectares of cork oak and more than 55 hectares of oak trees with a 50-year outlook. Recently, he has been preparing to produce Alvarino wines in the Rias Baixas region of Galicia in northwestern Spain, aiming for production in four to five years.

For wine lovers, it is fascinating to watch whether Vega Sicilia, already a classic, can transcend classic status to become a legend and whether it can continue to carry its current aura into the future. Pablo Alvarez says, "The best is still to be done, the best vintage must be the next one."

Exterior view of the Vega Sicilia winery.