[Jo Yongjun's Journey] Winding and Hidden 'Hwaam Palgyeong'... Comforting a Winding Life

Journey to Hwaam Palgyeong Along Jeongseon Local Road No. 424

Jeongseon has many tourist attractions, but the local road 424, which runs alongside Hwaam Palgyeong, cannot be overlooked. Although it passes by scenic spots, the road is remote and quiet, making it ideal for a drive during the COVID-19 era. Munchijae, located along road 424, offers a spectacular view harmonizing with the lush greenery.

Molundae, the 7th Scenic Spot of Hwaam Palgyeong

8 Gyeongin Grand Valley Yeongcheon Waterfall

Hwaam Cave in Gyeongin Region 4

Late summer greenery encountered on Road 424

Jeongseon Sogeumgang

Munchijae

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yongjun]After passing Cheoseo (處暑), the winds blowing in the mornings and evenings have become cool. The season is now beginning to transition into autumn. This is the second autumn since the outbreak of COVID-19. The momentum of the pandemic still shows no sign of weakening. It has been a continuous stretch of days where even traveling feels hesitant. However, if you want to take a late vacation or just breathe some fresh air to refresh your tired body and mind, I recommend a contactless drive. The destination is Jeongseon in Gangwon-do, rich with sights and attractions. Jeongseon has many long-standing tourist resources, but in terms of natural scenery, the Hwaam Palgyeong along Provincial Road 424 is the best. The route passes by famous scenic spots but is secluded and quiet, making it a travel destination suitable for the COVID era. Along this road, there are the 1st scenic spot Hwaam Mineral Spring, the 4th scenic spot Hwaam Cave, the 7th scenic spot Molundae, and the 8th scenic spot Gwangdaegok. In addition, there are other notable attractions like Sogeumgang and Munchijae scattered throughout Jeongseon. Some places can be visited with a slight detour during the drive, and others can be enjoyed while driving.

From Jeongseon County, follow National Road 59, pass Deokuri Experience Village, and enter Provincial Road 424. The first place you will encounter on this road is Hwaam Cave (the 4th of Hwaam Palgyeong). Within a 5 km radius centered on the cave, the scenic spots Hwaam 1 through 8 unfold. But before heading to the cave, there is a place you must visit first: Munchijae in Bukdong-ri. About 1.3 km before the cave, turn left, cross Osan Bridge, and follow the winding road uphill. Suddenly, the view opens wide. Munchijae, the pass leading from Osan to Munnae-ri in Bukdong-ri, appears in full view. Munchijae is named because it is like a gate to Bukdong-ri, surrounded by mountains over 1,000 meters high such as Goyangsan, Gakheesan, and Gommokijae.

Standing at the observatory, the endlessly winding road leading to Bukdong-ri village is both fascinating and dizzying. Bukdong-ri was so remote that it was said to have passed through the Korean War (6.25) without even knowing it. Nowadays, Munchijae Road has become famous as one of the best courses for longboarding, attracting board enthusiasts.

After a brief detour, you now enter the main area of Hwaam Palgyeong. First is Hwaam Cave. It was a gold mine from 1922 until liberation. The cave, called Cheonpo Mine, is 1,803 meters long. In the middle of the cave is a wide plaza, surrounded by various attractions such as stalactites, stalagmites, flowstones, and cave flowers. On the southwest side of the plaza stands a large stone pillar 5 meters in circumference and 8 meters high. On the east wall and ceiling, bizarre stalactites and stalagmites hang like decorations. From the parking lot to the cave entrance ticket booth, you can either take a monorail or walk up.

After leaving Hwaam Cave and heading south along Road 421, you will pass the 2nd scenic spot Turtle Rock and the 3rd scenic spot Yongmaso before reaching the 1st scenic spot Hwaam Mineral Spring.

Hwaam Mineral Spring has a legend that in 1910, a local resident dreamed of two dragons, the Blue Dragon and the Yellow Dragon, entangled and struggling under the Guseulbong rock of Gunuisan (923m). After finding the spot and digging, water sprang from the rock crevice, becoming the mineral spring.

After taking a sip of the mineral water and continuing on, you soon reach Hwapyoju, a massive stone pillar whose shape changes depending on the viewing angle. It looks like two pillar-shaped rocks rising, and legend says a mountain spirit used this pillar as a frame for making straw sandals.

The valley stretching from Hwapyoju to Molundae, the 7th scenic spot, is called "Jeongseon Sogeumgang." Known for its beautiful snowy scenery, Sogeumgang, also called Seoram, features jagged rocks in Eocheon that seem to pierce the sky. Resembling the famous Manmulsang rock formations of Geumgangsan, Sogeumgang is only about 4 km long, which can feel a bit short and underwhelming if you just drive through quickly. However, the lush green cliffs offer a pleasant view.

After passing Sogeumgang, you arrive at Molundae. Park your car at the roadside parking lot and walk a short forest path to find a rock formation large enough to seat dozens of people. This is the summit of Molundae.

Molundae is a broad rock slab spread atop a cliff that looks like layers stacked along the Eocheon riverside. It is said to be named Molun (meaning "disappearing clouds") because it seems to be shrouded in mist rising from the water. Molundae has the most dramatic scenery among the Hwaam Palgyeong, evoking spontaneous exclamations of "Ah, such a place exists in the world!"

Standing on Molundae, you feel a solemn beauty rarely experienced elsewhere. Especially, an ancient dead tree, likely hundreds of years old, stands resolutely at the cliff’s edge, adding thrilling tension to the landscape. This is the tree poet Hwang Donggyu described as the "pine pretending to be dead." Its twisted silver branches strangely have not decayed but fossilized, becoming a symbol of Molundae. Beyond the old pine, the Sogeumgang valley below appears faint and distant. On the left side of the path up to Molundae is a small pavilion, a good spot to stop briefly and wash sweat away with the breeze.

After Molundae comes Gwangdaegok, the 8th scenic spot. It is the least known among the Hwaam Palgyeong, partly because the path there is not easy. Gwangdaegok is a roughly 4 km valley flowing along the western foot of Gwangdae Mountain (1,019m), featuring 12 caves and waterfalls such as Sodogul, Chotdaebawi, Cheongdaebawi, Yeongcheon Waterfall, Golbaengi So, and Bagaji So.

Gwangdaegok is a mysterious valley where sky, clouds, and earth meet, preserving pristine nature. It carries a legend forbidding impure people from entering since ancient times.

There is a trail from Gwangdaesa Temple to Yeongcheon Waterfall, about 1.7 km away. At the entrance is a forest trail sign, which might mislead you into thinking the trail is easy. To warn you in advance, finding the path is not easy. The rarely used trail is hidden by dense bushes and is hard to see. You must cross the rugged rocky valley several times. Shortly after entering the trail, the path descends directly into the valley.

Passing Seonnyeo Waterfall, you enter a series of waterfalls and pools. There is Golbaengi Waterfall, where the falling water spirals around the rocks, and Bagaji So, a large gourd-shaped pool filled with valley water. Below Golbaengi Waterfall is a wide rock slab.

From Bagaji So, following the valley and stepping on slippery moss while tracing the gorge, you finally reach Yeongcheon Waterfall. A cool breeze flows down along the water stream.

Umbrella plants and stone sedum growing on the cliffs are full of moisture. Tree branches cover the sky, allowing almost no sunlight. The late summer heat disappears instantly. The valley air is so cold it gives you goosebumps.

Jeongseon = Text and photos by Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yongjun jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△How to get there=There are two ways to reach Jeongseon Provincial Road 424. Taking National Road 35 from Yeongwol to Taebaek, turn left at Midong Elementary School intersection to go to Gwangdaegok, Molundae, Hwaam Cave, and Munchijae in that order. Conversely, starting from Jeongseon-eup, you can travel in the order of Munchijae, Hwaam Cave, and Molundae.

△Attractions=In Jeongseon, besides Hwaam Palgyeong, there are places like Byeongbangchi Skywalk, Jeongseon 5-day Market, Auraji, Rail Bike, Najon Station, and Donggang Natural Recreation Forest.