[Joyongjun's Travel Stories] A Single Haeguk Blooming Brightly Embracing the Sound of Waves

Columnar Joints Blooming Like a Flower
Spectacular 1.7km Sound of Waves Trail Along the Columnar Joints
Suspension Bridge, Pebble Beach, and Various Attractions
Visited by 680,000 People Last Year, Now a Leading Marine Destination

Columnar joints spread out in the shape of a fan-shaped flower

Columnar joints spreading out in the shape of a fan flower as seen from the observation tower

Seagulls at Eupcheon Coast, Gyeongju

Soaring Columnar Joint

Although the solar term Ipchun has passed, the biting cold wave continues to rage. This is a seaside village in Gyeongju where people have come to enjoy the early spring atmosphere, but the waves crashing against the breakwater are tremendous. Pebbles, shattered into tiny pieces by the force of the waves, toss and turn in the coastal waters. At the spot where the waves dance and ripple, a striking columnar jointing formation rises prominently. This is the Gyeongju columnar jointing, which blooms in a fan shape and is called the "Flower of the East Sea." The "Sound of Waves Trail," which follows the columnar joints, is a great place to slowly savor the approaching spring vibes. The trail connects 1.7 km between Eupcheon Port and Haseo Port in Yangnam-myeon, Gyeongju. It does not matter which of the two starting points you begin from. Along the trail, you can encounter a suspension bridge, fan-shaped columnar joints, an observation tower, a pebble beach, and tilted or lying columnar joints.

The Eupcheon-ri area in Gyeongju was a place rarely visited by travelers just over a decade ago. Although Gyeongju borders the sea, countless tourist attractions and landmarks are concentrated in the city center, so few people ventured this far. Even those visiting the East Coast usually only stopped by Gamun Temple Site and the Munmu Daewang Tomb before returning. However, starting about ten years ago, something began to attract outsiders’ footsteps: the observation tower and the "Sound of Waves Trail" along the columnar joints.

The observation tower, opened in 2017, recorded a cumulative 2,143,445 visitors as of the end of December last year. Especially when including the approximately 390,000 tourists who visited the "Sound of Waves Trail" along with the observation deck, about 680,000 people visited the columnar joints just last year. This remote area has firmly established itself as a premier marine tourism destination.

Columnar Jointing Wave Sound Trail Guide Sign

A suspension bridge over the sea that offers great fun walking on water

Parking your car at Eupcheon Port and walking just a little, you first encounter the suspension bridge. It is not a "shaking bridge" but a "swaying" suspension bridge. As a path floating above the sea, standing on the bridge gives you the experience of undulating like waves. The movement is more dynamic than expected, causing both adults and children to feel a slight thrill. Once you get used to the swaying, it’s fun to gently shake the bridge in rhythm with the steady sound of the waves. Freely swaying the bridge feels like walking on the waves with your own two feet, becoming one with the sea.

Following the trail, you head toward the observation tower. To the left of the path, the wider East Sea and columnar joints welcome you. Columnar joints are formed when lava erupted from a volcano cools upon contact with the earth’s surface, contracting and cracking to create polygonal pillar-shaped joints (parallel columns). Along the Sound of Waves Trail, you can discover various shapes of columnar joints. Some spread out like a fan, some lie neatly stacked like dry firewood, and others are tilted like hexagonal pencil-shaped solidified crystals leaning over.

The observation tower, the tallest columnar joint on the coast, is a friend that colors the sea vibrantly. During the day, it serves as a lookout for coastal scenery, and at night, it acts as a steadfast guardian by illuminating with colorful lights.

If you follow the Padosorigil Trail, a lookout tower stands tall.

Eupcheon Port Lighthouse

Climbing the tower, the fan-shaped columnar joints spread out in all directions come into full view. Usually, columnar joints stand vertically as hexagonal or square pillars, as seen at Jeju’s Gaetkkak Coast. Occasionally, some lie sideways, but it is rare to find ones that spread out roundly like fan ribs or flower petals.

Resembling a single flower of the sea, these columnar joints have earned the nickname "Flower of the East Sea." They are a rare example worldwide, making them valuable both academically and naturally.

Watching the rough waves of the East Sea ripple over the flower-petal-like lying columnar joints feels as if all worries are washed away.

Columnar joints lying in a fan-shaped pattern that holds value worldwide

Leaving the tower, you head to the pebble beach. The pebble beach adds an element of fun to what could be a monotonous walking path. Smooth, rounded stones gather closely, waiting for travelers. Step off the flat walkway and try walking on the round pebbles. Each time the waves roll in, you can hear the clattering sound of the pebbles tumbling nearby.

The wind carried by the waves seems to carry the scent of spring. True to its name, the Sound of Waves Trail is alive with the rich sounds of crashing waves. The waves hitting the rocks create milky white foam and play a lively melody. Perhaps because the sound of water is so familiar, the rhythm, like a lullaby, resonates and gently scatters worries, breaking them into small pieces and washing them away with the waves.

Jusangjeolli Wave Sound Trail, at the end of that trail is Haseohang Harbor

A person is fishing on the coast of Eupcheon, Gyeongju.

The Sound of Waves Trail, which mixes wooden stairs, dirt paths, and pebble beaches, is dotted with benches, pavilions, and photo zones perfect for resting. When the sun sets, landscape lighting turns on, allowing nighttime visits. After walking the columnar joint trail along the coast for about an hour, the lingering sound of seaweed and foam harmonies in your ears feels like a dream.

Near the Sound of Waves Trail, there are must-visit places when traveling the Gyeongju East Sea area: the East and West Three-story Stone Pagodas at Gamun Temple Site (National Treasure No. 112), the origin of the Unified Silla three-story stone pagoda, and the Munmu Daewang Tomb (Historic Site No. 158).

To the north of Eupcheon stand the Munmu Daewang Tomb and the Gamun Temple Site stone pagodas. This is the Munmu Daewang Tomb that the late Go Yu-seop urged visitors to see in his works "My Unforgettable Sea" and "A Passage of Gyeongju Travel." From Bonggil Beach, you can see the Munmu Daewang Tomb even closer. Just 200 meters from the beach lies a rocky islet, the underwater tomb of King Munmu. According to his will, "After I die, I will become a dragon to uphold Buddhism and protect the peace of the country, so bury my remains in the East Sea." His body was cremated and buried there, and the rock was named Daewangam (Great King Rock). The two stone pagodas standing firmly at Gamun Temple Site are also impressive enough to inspire awe.

Munmu the Great's Underwater Tomb as Seen from Bonggil Beach, Gyeongju

Seagulls flocking at Bonggil Beach to eat Shrimp Crackers thrown by tourists

◇Travel Notes

△Directions=From the Seoul metropolitan area, take the Gyeongbu Expressway and exit at Gyeongju IC. Pass through Seorabeol-daero and head toward Bomun Tourist Complex. From Bomun, go through Churyeong Tunnel, Gamun Temple Site, and Munmu Daewang Tomb, then proceed toward Eupcheon Port and the columnar joints.