[Joyongjun's Travel Stories] Spring Fragrance Sizzles Between Busodamak Folding Screen Rocks... How Could I Ever Forget It?

Invitation to Okcheon Spring Fragrance Where Geumgang River Winds

Okcheon is a region where the Geum River flows in a winding, zigzag pattern. In Chuso-ri, Gunbuk-myeon, where the Geum River tributary So-okcheon flows into Daecheong Lake, there is Busodamak. Walking along the narrow ridge trail flanked by lakes on both sides, you can't help but fall in love with the pristine clear water.

Travelers walking along the healing trail at Hwain Forest Bathing Site with wildflowers in bloom

A Stream Embracing Busodamak

Spring Scenery by the Geum River

Dunjibong, the first scenic spot of Okcheon, has a shape that looks like the Korean Peninsula flipped left to right.

Cherry Blossom Road along the Old Route 37 in Gu-eup, Okcheon

Korea Tourism Organization Sejong Chungbuk Branch's Okcheon Traditional Culture Experience Center, selected as a promising small-scale tourist destination this year

[Asia Economy, Reporter Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist] Entering a forest in its natural state. A forest planted and nurtured single-handedly for 50 years. Before your eyes stretches an endless forest of Metasequoia and cypress trees. The 4.2km walking trail, said to be the best for healing, dances up and down along the curves of the mountain. Wildflowers in yellow, purple, and white naturally greet you along the roadside of the trail. The walking path of Busodamak, where flower vines hang over the lake, part of the Daecheongho 500-ri Trail, is also not to be missed. Walking along the narrow ridge flanked by the lake on both sides, you will inevitably fall for the pristine Oksoo water. Dunjibong, located where the Geum River winds, is famous for its landscape resembling a horizontally flipped map of the Korean Peninsula. Following the peak cherry blossom path to Okcheon Gu-eup, you will be welcomed by the birthplace of Mrs. Yuk Young-soo and the Okcheon Traditional Culture Experience Center, a small-scale potential tourist site. And is that all? When you think of Okcheon, the most famous thing is probably the poem "Narrow Field at the Eastern End / A Stream Murmuring Old Stories" by poet Jeong Ji-yong. In Gu-eup, there is Jeong Ji-yong’s birthplace, which always keeps its doors open, as well as the Jiyong Literary Park. An invitation to nostalgia on a spring day, heading to Okcheon, Chungbuk.

◇Hwa-in Forest Bathing Area, nurtured single-handedly for 50 years, 4.2km walking trail healing spot

In Annam-myeon, Okcheon-gun, the Hwa-in Forest Bathing Area has started to gain word of mouth little by little. Upon arriving at the forest bathing area, your body already reacts. You feel an urgent pull, naturally drawn into the forest.

At the ticket booth, owner Jeong Hong-yong handed an information notice filled with apologies to visitors while charging an entrance fee of 3,000 won.

Looking briefly, it reads as follows: It has been 8 years since it was opened free of charge in 2013 upon the county office’s request. Over 100 million won has been spent on maintenance and other costs. Enduring losses from free admission, he comforted himself by saying he qualified for the Society (a club for donors over 100 million won). But there is a limit. To provide better services and create walking trails from 2021, an entrance fee of 3,000 won is now charged, and he apologizes for this. Infants, kindergartners, and residents of Annam and Annae can still use it for free as before. Although 3,000 won is a reasonable price compared to other arboretums or forest bathing areas, the owner’s apology comes first.

However, I can say with certainty that if you walk through the forest properly even once, you will realize that the sweat and devotion spent over many years nurturing the forest cannot be valued by an entrance fee.

Mr. Jeong bought a mountain in his hometown and has been cultivating the forest for nearly 50 years. He planted and nurtured all the trees in this deep and wide forest by himself. The total amount of labor one person has endured to create such a vast forest suitable for forest bathing in the deep mountains is beyond estimation.

Metasequoia trees lined up at the entrance of the forest bathing area greet visitors first. Their thick trunks stand on both sides like a review line, and every tiny branch is beginning to sprout new leaves.

The more than 10,000 Metasequoia trees grown robustly make it the largest cluster in Korea, unmatched by any other forest.

The entire course of the forest bathing area, winding around the mountain, is about 4.2 km.

Jeong said, "4.2 km, which is about one-tenth of a full marathon course, is the best distance for healing," and explained, "We designed the total walking trail length of our forest bathing area to match that level. It takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes to walk a full lap comfortably."

After passing through the vertical Metasequoia forest, you encounter chestnut and cypress forests. Cypress trees are especially cherished by the owner. Their fragrance and gloss are excellent, acting as a sedative that calms both body and mind.

During these difficult times overcoming COVID-19, when you enter the forest trail and look back, you find yourself focusing inward and feeling your wounded body and mind healing.

The scent of phytoncide sways throughout the forest trail winding around the mountain. Spring wildflowers such as purple Corydalis and yellow Adonis enjoy the spring breeze gently along the roadside.

The greatest virtue of the forest bathing area is its quietness and tranquility. Although there is no breathtaking scenery, just walking while listening to the unknown birds’ songs and your own footsteps spreads a refreshing energy throughout your body.

On the way back, the owner’s voice, saying "For visitors who cherish the forest as their own, I will continue to plant and nurture trees as long as I can," echoes in your ears.

◇Busodamak, the Salt Mountain on the Lake, located where the Daecheongho waterway enters

Okcheon is a region where the Geum River flows in a winding, zigzag pattern. In Chuso-ri, Gunbuk-myeon, where the tributary So-okcheon flows into Daecheongho, there is Busodamak.

From Chuso-ri village, you can follow So-okcheon to reach Chusojung and Busojung pavilions on Busodamak. This path is also part of the Daecheongho 500-ri Trail.

Busodamak was originally a mountain ridge that became submerged by the Daecheongho reservoir, leaving only the sharp ridges exposed above the water. As the soil in the submerged parts was washed away, rocks were revealed, creating a landscape resembling a rock folding screen. The rock formation stretches about 700 meters long like a folding screen over the water.

Busodamak’s ridge trail offers magnificent scenery in all seasons, but its spring splendor is the best. Although it is a breathtaking view that everyone agrees on, it has not been widely known. Great scenic spots often have old stories, but Busodamak lacks tales matching its scenic value. The only notable mention is that Song Si-yeol, a Joseon Dynasty scholar, described the entire area’s landscape as "Salt Mountain" (Sogeumgang).

The Busodamak ridge trail is half soft dirt path and half wooden deck. With every step, a dazzling path covered with new buds unfolds. Cherry blossoms and azaleas stir your heart. The waves from fishing boats cutting through the still water offer a mysterious beauty. The watercolor painted by spring is this delicate and beautiful.

◇The scenery of Gu-eup, where Jeong Ji-yong’s poem Nostalgia is depicted

When you visit Okcheon, Jeong Ji-yong comes to mind. The poet of "Nostalgia," which begins with "At the eastern end of the wide field, old stories..." was born in Okcheon in 1902. At 22, while studying in Japan, Jeong wrote "Nostalgia," expressing his deep longing for his hometown.

His birthplace has been restored in Okcheon-eup (Gu-eup). Next to it is a literary museum. The people of Gu-eup take great pride in Jeong Ji-yong.

Opened in 1996, the Jeong Ji-yong Literary Museum offers literary exhibition rooms, a video room, and literary classrooms so visitors can see, feel, appreciate, and experience Jeong Ji-yong’s literature. Upon entering the museum, a wax figure of Jeong Ji-yong welcomes visitors in the lobby. It is a photo zone where you can take pictures with Jeong sitting on a bench. The exhibition rooms organize his life, the historical context, and his literature by era and year.

Along the old Route 37 in Gu-eup, there is a beautiful cherry blossom road. Every April, the cherry blossoms bloom fully, making it one of Okcheon’s representative spots. The road stretches about 8 km from Okcheon-eup Gyodong Reservoir to Sojeong-ri, Gunbuk-myeon. From the midpoint, the Geum River is visible, making it a great drive.

Especially in Gu-eup, there is the Okcheon Traditional Culture Experience Center, selected this year as a small-scale potential tourist site by the Korea Tourism Organization’s Sejong Chungbuk branch. It is a place to enjoy Okcheon’s culture, which blossomed amid long history and natural environment, and to continue the tradition of Korean culture.

Various self-guided experiences are available, including staying in a traditional Hanok at Gosisan-gwan, decorating fans, crafting Hanji paper, making horse-shaped wooden tags (mapae), and tile coloring.

Okcheon = Text and photos by Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△Getting there= From the metropolitan area, take the Gyeongbu Expressway and exit at Okcheon Interchange to reach the downtown area, with Gu-eup nearby. After visiting Gu-eup first, Busodamak, Hwa-in Forest Bathing Area, and Dunjibong are all within 20 km.

△Attractions= Including Dunjibong, which resembles the Korean Peninsula shape, Yongamsa Temple, a sunrise spot selected by CNN, Ijidang, the first treasure schoolhouse, Yuk Young-soo’s birthplace, Gu-eup cultural heritage tour, Jukhyang Elementary School old building (National Registered Cultural Property No. 57), Sangchunjeong, Cheongpungjeong, and Janggyegwan Tourist Site.

△Food= Along the Geum River, Doribaengbaengi, crispy fried minnows, and fish soup noodles made by boiling freshwater fish whole with bones, adding chili paste and various vegetables, are famous. Also popular among locals are Okcheon Sundaegukbap (blood sausage soup with rice), Mirak Olgaengi, and Geumgang Olgaengi (pictured) restaurants, which are delicious.