Winter Has Returned... Where Did All Those Bungeoppang and Gunbam Stalls Go?

Seoul Street Vendors Decrease by 18% Over 5 Years
Impact of 'Permit System' Introduction... Reduction in Unauthorized Stores

"It's hard to find a Bungeoppang shop in this alley. If you want to go somewhere else, you have to walk at least 20 minutes."

On the afternoon of the 3rd, Mr. A, 52, whom we met in Sillim-dong, Gwanak-gu, Seoul, said this. Mr. A, who requested anonymity, has been running a Bungeoppang street stall here for 8 years. The alley where Mr. A settled was a bustling area crowded with bars and restaurants, but street stalls selling winter snacks like roasted chestnuts, Bungeoppang, and fish cakes were hard to find.

The situation was similar in nearby alleys. Although constantly crowded with pedestrians, only one or two street stalls caught the eye during a 20-minute walk. Mr. A said, "Three years ago, there were more than 20 Bungeoppang street stalls around here, but now only about five remain, including me," adding, "Business is not as good as before, and the operating conditions are strict, so everyone is leaving."

A carp-shaped pastry shop in Gwanak-gu, Seoul, closed down [Photo by Lee Seohee]

Winter snacks such as Bungeoppang, roasted chestnuts, and fish cakes, which used to satisfy hunger every year, are disappearing from the streets. According to the 'Seoul Street Vendor Status' announced by the Seoul Metropolitan Government, the number of operating street vendors decreased by 18% from 6,669 in 2018 to 5,443 in 2022. Among them, food-related street vendors dropped by about 16%, from 2,925 in 2018 to 2,453 in 2022.

When checking the application (app) 'Bungsekwon,' which shows the locations of street Bungeoppang shops, there were only seven Bungeoppang street vendors within a 300-meter radius of Sillim Station on Subway Line 2.

Upon visiting, three of these were already closed. University student Choi Seo-in (24) said, "I wanted to eat Bungeoppang recently and went to a street stall with friends, but the place we often went to was gone, so we walked a long way," adding, "Not only Bungeoppang but other winter snacks like roasted chestnuts seem to be disappearing a lot."

Street stalls have been decreasing every year since Seoul introduced the 'Street Vendor Permit System.' In 2018, Seoul introduced the permit system to guarantee the livelihood of merchants and ensure pedestrian convenience, announcing official guidelines. Each district issues permits to stores that meet certain conditions such as residence and asset requirements, store size, and installation space, and supports store maintenance.

Along with this, crackdowns on unlicensed street stalls have intensified, resulting in a decrease in unlicensed stores. The number of unlicensed stores in Seoul dropped from 4,965 in 2018 to 3,571 in 2022, while licensed stores increased from 1,704 to 1,872 during the same period.

However, conflicts between the Seoul city government and merchants continue. Merchants point out that the operating conditions are numerous and strict. Although detailed conditions vary by district, stores can only be installed on sidewalks with an effective width of 2.5 meters or more.

Also, installation is not possible unless a distance of at least 2 meters from both ends of bus and taxi waiting areas and at least 2.5 meters from subway and underground shopping mall entrances and crosswalks is secured. Merchants with assets of 300 million KRW or more are not eligible for permits, and resale or succession is prohibited. In principle, new store openings are also restricted.

Jo Hang-a, Secretary-General of the National Federation of Democratic Street Vendors, said, "Most street vendors are low-income people who make a living from this, but considering all the conditions set by Seoul, it is safe to say that very few can actually operate their businesses," adding, "About 60% of merchants are disqualified for various reasons and cannot run their stores."

The Seoul city government states that the goal is not to reduce the number of stores but to help merchants operate their businesses in a stable environment. A Seoul city official said, "Unlicensed street stalls have been targets of crackdowns and removals as they spoil the street scenery," adding, "The purpose of the street vendor permit system is to create a stable environment for these merchants," and asked for cooperation.