[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] At the End of Seopdari... Winter Waiting First

Scenery of Seopdari Bridge Encountered on the Way to Winter in Yeongwol

Yeongwol is a region known for its many disappeared old bridges called Seopdari. In particular, Ssangseopdari and Panun-ri Seopdari in Jucheon-myeon are famous. The scene of a child casting a fishing net into the Pyeongchang River under the Seopdari at dawn is heartwarming.

[Asia Economy, Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist] The third wave of the novel coronavirus infection (COVID-19) has begun, coinciding with early winter. Social distancing level 2 has been issued in the Seoul metropolitan area, including Seoul. It is a time to pause once again. Therefore, instead of introducing travel destinations, this Travel Manli presents a photo essay capturing the scenery encountered at the gateway to winter. The intention is for you to feel the late autumn and early winter atmosphere through the photos and hope you visit next time.

We head to Yeongwol in Gangwon-do, located upstream of the Namhan River. Yeongwol is a village surrounded by rivers. The Pyeongchang River, flowing down from Pyeongchang, meets the Jucheon River in Yeongwol to form the Seogang River, which then flows into the Namhan River after meeting the Donggang River in Yeongwol-eup.

The main feature of Yeongwol’s scenery at this time of year is the traditional log bridges laid over the rivers. A log bridge, or seopdari, is a traditional bridge made using wood, pine branches, and soil. Every late autumn, residents weave logs to build the bridge, and when summer floods wash it away, they rebuild it. In Yeongwol, seopdari are found over the Donggang in the town center, in Panun-ri of Jucheon-myeon, and over the Jucheon River. Among these, we travel to Jucheon-myeon, where the river scenery with seopdari is especially serene.

Seopdari used to be common in Yeongwol, Jeongseon, and Pyeongchang areas, but most have disappeared due to the construction of modern bridges, now existing only as unique attractions.

In Jucheon-myeon, near the Juchun Bridge and Sulsam area on the Seogang River, there is a double log bridge (ssang seopdari). Crossing the bridge and climbing the larch forest path leads to the scenic pavilion Bingheoru. The double log bridge originated from the route taken by the Gangwon-do provincial governor and his entourage when visiting the Yeongwol Jangneung (Tomb of Danjong). Residents built two log bridges side by side so that palanquins could cross. On the return trip, the governor’s party expressed gratitude by hosting a feast with alcohol and food.

Later, the building of the double log bridge became an annual village event but eventually faded away. In 1985, the ssangdari play was reenacted at the Gangwon-do folk play contest, winning an excellence award, which revived interest and led to the resumption of building the seopdari.

About 10 minutes by car from the double log bridge is Panun-ri village, where the Pyeongchang River flows and another seopdari exists. The Panun-ri seopdari is located in front of the Panun Village Hall, connecting Bamdui Village and Midari Village across the Pyeongchang River. The name Midari is endearing; it means “no bridge” because the village is surrounded by rivers on three sides, and the seopdari often gets washed away during summer monsoon rains.

The seopdari is constructed by placing water-resistant ash wood in an inverted Y shape, then laying thick pine and oak logs on top to form the bridge’s frame, followed by pine branches for the deck and covering it with soil. Though simple and rustic, this combination of wood and earth holds a longing and memories that no grand or beautiful bridge in the world can match.

Midari Village also boasts a magnificent metasequoia tree-lined road. The towering, straight trees are impressive. When the metasequoia branches, shedding leaves, catch the sunset’s red glow, the view is spectacular. The metasequoia road, about 150 meters long, is located within a private property called Boboskat Camping Ground.

Under the large trees, you can enjoy counting stars around a campfire, and take pleasant walks along the tree-lined road and riverside forest path at dawn when the water mist gently rises.

Additionally, following the Beopheung Valley in Jucheon-myeon, there is a historic temple. The forest path from the Geungnakjeon Hall to the Jeokmyeolbogung Shrine is beautifully lined with tall pine, fir, and oak trees. About 10 minutes by car upstream is Beopheungsa Temple. Founded in 643 by Monk Jajang, who enshrined Buddha’s relics, it was originally named Heungnyeongsa. It is a beautiful place. Once winter passes and COVID-19 ends, be sure to visit and enjoy these beautiful landscapes.

◇Travel Notes

△Getting There= From the metropolitan area, take the Yeongdong Expressway to the Manjong Junction, switch to the Jungang Expressway heading toward Jecheon, and exit at the Sinrim-Jucheon Interchange. Turn right and follow Local Road 88, then turn left at Sinil Samgeori to reach Jucheon-myeon across the Jucheon River. Panun-ri is about 10 minutes toward Pyeongchang from here.

△Attractions= Major attractions include the scenery of Donggang River, Cheongnyeongpo imbued with the sorrow of Danjong, and Jangneung Tomb. There are also Seonam Hanbando Village, Eorayeon, Seondol, Yoseonam, and Byeolmaru Observatory. Over 30 museums, including the Folk Painting Museum and Media Museum, are also worth visiting. Along Beopheung Valley in Jucheon-myeon, there are about 10 campgrounds, including Namgang Camp.

△Food= The town center has many famous restaurants serving Gondre-bap (rice with wild greens). Gondre-bap is steamed with mountain vegetables and rice, and when mixed with seasoning sauce, the aroma of the wild greens lingers delightfully. Jangneung Barley Rice House and Jangneung Handmade Tofu near Jangneung are also delicacies. Seongho Restaurant’s freshwater snail hangover soup is popular. Yeongwol Western Market has many shops selling buckwheat pancakes and buckwheat crepes. Dahanu Village in Jucheon offers high-quality Korean beef at affordable prices.